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سه شنبه 2 آبان 1396

5 reasons why you should never feel guilty about wearing jeans every day

Fashion's love affair with jeans shows no signs of slowing down. From dark wash slim cuts at A.P.C. to high-waist wide-legs at Dior, the latest round of catwalk shows proved that our beloved denim is going nowhere soon. While there are a myriad of new jeans styles that have flooded the market (cropped flare and girlfriend jeans, we're looking at you), it's worth noting that you needn't rush to fall for a pair that lends itself to a 'trend' category. A classic pair that are more smart than sloppy and a flattering cut are a fail-safe.

But along with this revival has come a renewed attitude to how and where we can wear our jeans. I'm a denim advocate. I wear them by day, night and at the weekend and challenge anyone to find me a pair of trousers as versatile as my trusty mid-blue straight-legs. I don't feel bad wearing them all the time- as fashion is suggesting we should- and neither should you.

Here are five reasons why...

Although the perfect pair varies for every woman, denim complete with a comfy waist, a 1-2% elastane stretch (any less than that and they can be a bit unforgiving) and a loose but tapered straight leg that ends just above the ankle are versatile, chic and flattering.

Rigid denim is very au courant and can be just as comfortable if you find a well-fitting pair. If fashion-y jeans, such as a kick-flare, mom or wide leg style aren't your thing, stick to a classic pair. It's more important that you feel and look great in them- which is just as well if you're wearing them to sit at your desk or dash from meeting-to- meeting all day.

Granted there are some occasions jeans aren’t welcome, like to a friend's wedding for example (I asked, she wasn’t keen) or to a job interview where a more formal look is necessary. The majority of the time however, denim can be reworked to suit the occasion. Heading to a pub lunch on a Sunday afternoon? Add a sweatshirt and box-fresh trainers. Going out for drinks after work? Pair your denim with a blazer, statement earrings and a block heel to smarten them up.

Chances are if you’re a real denim aficionado, you’ve invested in a great pair that suit your shape perfectly so what better way than getting your cost-per-wear down by dressing them up and down to suit a plethora of scenarios?

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  • جمعه 28 مهر 1396

    Model Cameron Russell calls out the fashion industry on sexual harassment

    Dozens of models are banding together to share anonymous accounts of sexual harassment as the controversy over Harvey Weinstein expands to other industries.

    Model and activist Cameron Russell, 30, began sharing stories on her Instagramfeed last week, explaining that she wanted to shine a light on abuse of young, often inexperienced models by seasoned professionals in the business.

    “Hearing about #harveyweinstein this week has sparked conversations about how widespread and how familiar his behavior is,” Russell wrote on her Instagram feed and has encouraged correspondents contributing their stories to publicly use the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse “so the industry can see the size and scope of this problem”.

    Among dozens of entries, many writers have described how, as young women often with little experience, they were left unguarded and vulnerable to predators, many of them photographers, agents, clients and bookers. One described how she was assaulted by an unnamed photographer when she was 15 years old for the sake of “making the pic look more sensual”.

    As the feed has gathered stories, it has received hundreds of “likes”, including some from well-known models. But Russell wrote that the Instagram accounts should not be seen as an exposé “because nothing in these stories should be a revelation for those working in our industry”.

    Russell’s call for the fashion industry to reform have been joined by supermodel Christy Turlington Burns. She told WWD that she felt fortunate that she had not been abused, but added: “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry.”

    Turlington, who is married to the actor and documentary maker Edward Burns, continued: “The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experienced at some point in our careers.”

    The model, who now runs a not-for-profit organization that trains midwives in Guatemala, said that there were many times early in her career when she had flown abroad for an assignment to find herself entrusted to the care of “some creepy playboy type”.

    “In hindsight, I fear I may have played the ‘honeypot’ that has been described in the stories about these predators who make other women feel protected. Unknowingly, but still an accomplice of sorts.”

    The Weinstein scandal is now placing the fashion industry in the crosshairs.

    Weinstein is married to a fashion designer, Georgina Chapman, and was frequently seen in the front row at his wife’s catwalk shows with senior industry executives. The couple have now separated, Chapman has announced.

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  • چهارشنبه 26 مهر 1396

    FASHION: Crafting a look for autumn

    SADLY, we are all too familiar with stories of sweatshop labour and youth exploitation in the fashion industry.

    So it is heartening to hear another tale – one where fashion is a positive force in people's lives and helps them make a fair living.

    York businesswoman Anne McCrickard has been telling those stories for several years now, through her ethical clothing boutique Maude & Tommy, Grape Lane.

    If clothes could talk, these garments would keep you captivated.

    Take the exquisite and colourful swing coat from Bibi Hanum in Uzbekistan. It is made by craftspeople, mostly women, in the Tashkent, Ferghana Valley and the Navoi Region. The company is a social enterprise, with a mission to provide economic opportunities for women while preserving Uzbekistan’s rich heritage.

    Anne explains: "The clothes are designed to incorporate the traditional crafts of Uzbek artisans. Ikat fabrics are made by master craftsmen in the Fergana Valley, whose families have employed these techniques for generations."

    These techniques were almost lost forever, adds Anne, because of the imposition of modernisation during the Soviet era.

    "In their style and ornamentation, Uzbek clothing reflects centuries of cross-cultural trade along the Silk Road network that crossed Central Asia, particularly from Persia, India and China."

    Every garment in the boutique has to fit in with Anne's ethos of slow fashion, the antithesis of today’s throwaway fast fashion, often made in sweatshop conditions.

    “I love buying from craftspeople from around the world," says Anne. "For autumn/winter, we have items handmade in York and Yorkshire, alongside pieces from India, Uzbekistan, France, Sweden and Italy.

    “Some are new ventures while others keep alive techniques that have been mastered over centuries. You’re not just buying clothes, you’re supporting these people, their children and entire communities."

    Another example is the block colour coat by Neeru Kumar. It looks surprisingly modern, but is based on traditional techniques and indigenous materials from India.

    And how about this as an antidote to throwaway fashion – a bag made from recycled goods. The company What Daisy Did uses waste materials from various industries to create its range of bags and purses.

    Anne says the designs are timeless, to outlive micro trends and seasons, and made by more than 100 artisans in rural India. "The bags are hard wearing and made to last, keeping them out of landfill for as long as possible," she adds.

    Chic craft pieces made closer to home also make the cut for autumn/winter at Maude & Tommy.

    "Norfolk-based CoridaKnit is known for its hand-felted accessories but the business has taken the latest collection in a new direction," says Anne. "Using a fresh technique known as nuno felting, it involves bonding 70 per cent extra fine merino wool on to a printed silk gauze textile. The effect is a stunningly-detailed lightweight felt with exquisite detail."

    Making Fairisle fabulous again is Galashiels-based Eribé, which describes itself as ‘a cottage industry gone global’. The business works with hand-knitters and knitwear designers who are experts in the heritage knitting technique.

    Created from natural fibres, including lambswool and merino, the garments are made using knowledge handed down from one generation to the next. There’s a mix of machine-knits and hand-framed styles, with almost 90 per cent of products made in Scotland, says Anne.

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  • دوشنبه 24 مهر 1396

    Cameron Russell and Edie Campbell call out photographers who sexually assault fashion models

    American model Cameron Russell has spent the last 18 hours glued to her mobile phone, reading and re-posting stories on her Instagram account from fellow fashion models who say they have suffered at the hands of photographers, casting directors, designers and other powerful men within the fashion industry.

    Russell, who has walked for Prada, Louis Vuitton, Victoria's Secret and many more, has respected the privacy of every victim by blocking out names, however the accusations submitted to her include tales of alleged manipulation, harassment and sexual assault, with many saying that the abuse happened when they were just 15 or 16 years-old.

    The first post that Russell shared was a friend’s story, who detailed how a male photographer had assaulted her on a test shoot at the age of 15. “A brave model (and friend) reached out to me with her story today,” Russell wrote, starting the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse.

    “She has asked to remain anonymous but asked that I share her words here because the photographer still works in the industry. She wants to encourage other women to speak up. We need a way to begin breaking the silence while remaining protected. We are not talking about one, five, or even twenty men. We are talking about a culture of exploitation and it must stop.”

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  • جمعه 21 مهر 1396

    All about Erdem's HM collaboration, according to Erdem Moralioglu

    Last year, on a bitterly cold spring day in London, Erdem Moralioglu took guests through his resort collection in his Mayfair store. I’d flown in from much warmer Sydney, so Moralioglu pulled out a leopard-print fur coat and joked to me that it would be the perfect antidote to the London weather. I relegated that coat to the dream category of my mental shopping list, concocting instead a more fabulous existence for it, to be worn traipsing around one’s French chateau or one’s Scottish moor property.

    But here at the H&M Australia showroom, I sight an Erdem x H&M leopard-print faux-fur coat that gave me the same frisson of fashion what-ifs with its design – and its price. It’s to be expected from the Scandinavian retailer, but seeing the quality and workmanship in person never ceases to surprise and delight.

    “There’s something about this collaboration that feels looser than my catwalk collections, and also very democratic,” says Moralioglu, who tells Vogue how he drew on his past creations, re-working shapes and silhouettes, such as a pleated dress from a 2005 collection, rather than on a singular narrative, as he is wont to do. “With each of our collaborations, we say to the designers that we want the true essence of their brand,” says H&M’s Ann-Sofie Johansson, the woman tasked with producing the samples for the designers, who “often can’t believe what we’ve managed to achieve”. After Balmain and Kenzo, “the timing felt right for a collaboration with a British designer well known for his romantic and feminine style”, she adds. “I feel we need more beauty in the world these days.”

    The Canadian-born, London-based designer also looked to his own childhood: “I was thinking about pieces that my mother wore, like when she would borrow my father’s coat to drive us to school.” Knits reference a Norwegian-style jumper that he had worn in school and styles seen in Twin Peaks, which he loved to watch as a teenager.

    Of working with him, Johansson points to his warmth and friendliness. “He loves people and has such a great understanding of who wears his clothes – it’s like they are his friends,” she says. “He’s also very specific and has an eye for perfection... it was exciting for us to work with someone who cared so much about every single detail.” The main label’s delicacy and whiffs of romanticism are captured in the H&M collaboration, with a mock crocodile handbag decorated with crystal patterns, as if brooches had been attached to a vintage handbag; a white lace blouse collared with pleats and interlaced black ribbon; and a tweed skirt with the edges artfully frayed, giving the piece a sense of undone modernity.

    “We always like to think big at H&M and to give our customers something special that’s completely unexpected,” says Johansson. “For us, it is always important to choose the best fabric for each garment, offering the best value for money.”

    A first for Moralioglu is menswear, which allowed him to design for himself but to also maintain a “dialogue between the two worlds” between menswear and womenswear. “I remember we were fitting the men’s jacket, and we tried it on the female model to see how she looked,” he recalls. “It was a real moment for us, because she looked so wonderful and relevant. It led to us creating a double-breasted jacket for the women’s collection, which is now my favourite in the whole collections.”

    The combination of his own history and that of his brand made the collaboration a unique experience. “Because so much of the past 12 years is woven into the collection, it felt so good to have the opportunity to look at the things I’ve done in the past and redevelop them – it was so exciting. The whole project has felt so personal.”

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  • چهارشنبه 19 مهر 1396

    The fashion in 1982’s “Blade Runner” still looks futuristic in 2017. Its sequel looks cliché

    In the 35 years since the original Blade Runner movie came out, fashion designers have looked to its unusual mashup of retro and futurism as a regular source of inspiration. What it got right was the way it took familiar references—1940s Hollywood glamour, early 1980s punk, film noir tropes—and threw them in a dystopian blender. Each character’s wardrobe signaled a type you understood, dislocated just enough to make it something strange and new.

    “I was mesmerized by the mix of what was then futuristic with what was already retro,” designer Jeremy Scott told CNN. “That is what makes Blade Runner the gold standard (among) sci-fi dystopian worlds, as it’s believable. Because we do not live in a world where everything is from today … We live in a chaotic world of various decades of architecture, automotive design and fashion, combining and colliding all (in) that same moment.”

    Blade Runner offered a vision of the future nobody had articulated before, and its influence is easy to see in the work of numerous designers. Among the high-profile examples are Alexander McQueen’s 1998 collection for Givenchy, which played off the remixed 1940s look of Rachael, the near-human “replicant” android who is the movie’s female lead. There was the overt reference to the punkish hair and makeup of “basic pleasure model” replicant Pris in Jean Paul Gaultier’s 2008 couture show. This year, Raf Simons showed a men’s collection on the streets of Chinatown in New York that reproduced the dark, rainy atmosphere of Blade Runner down to the umbrellas, while Bottega Veneta’s runway stylist admitted to the Financial Times (paywall) that she was inspired by Rachael’s look.

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  • دوشنبه 17 مهر 1396

    Meghan Markle's house shoes are for wearing everywhere and you too can own them

    If you want to do cosy style like a soon-to-be royal, then Meghan Markle’s laid-back slippers need to be on your shopping list.

    Taking cues from pyjama dressing, Markle is a firm favourite of taking her house shoes out of the house, wearing a pair of Birdies slippers more than once out and about.

    Wearing the brand’s black, loafer-style offering named The Blackbird (and opting for the shearling-free interior), Markle has been spotted everywhere from the flower market to behind-the-scenes at Suits in the shoe.

    And even though they’re meant for the indoors, Markle is on the same page with getting value for money, making sure she gets every cent of value from the USD$140 slippers.

    Not sure how to style slippers? Take cues from this (almost) princess and pair with jean shorts and a button up white shirt. Simple.

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  • شنبه 8 مهر 1396

    Martha Hunt dazzles in a satin bardot gown before changing into a tiny mini skirt as she joins leggy Josephine Skriver and Sara Sampaio to storm the runway for Redemption's Paris Fashion Week show

    They're used to strutting their stuff in lingerie down the Victoria's Secret catwalk.

    But Angels Martha Hunt, Josephine Skriver and Sara Sampaio proved they're just as at home on high end runways as they walked for the Redemption show during Paris Fashion Week on Friday.

    Leading the way was Vogue covergirl Martha, who dazzled in an black bardot gown which skimmed over her sensational figure and featured a dramatic thigh high split that offered a look at her tanned and toned pins.

    Wearing her golden locks in a side parting, the stunning starlet bore a neutral make-up palette that accentuated her flawless features, whilst she finished off the look with a pair of black leather boots cut to the calf.

    Also sizzling on the outing was Josephine Skriver, who showed off her tanned and toned stomach in a flared black dress top that was fastened with one button to flaunt her cleavage and impeccably sculpted abs.

    Sara Sampaio also looked phenomenal, teaming an oatmeal hued one sided jumper with a cream polka dot pencil skirt that was adorned with a navy lace trim and featured a flattering front split, whilst she layered up with a distressed denim jacket.

    Martha will soon be featured in Victoria's Secret's upcoming ad campaign that found her in the Colorado wilderness being directed by Michael Bay for a Western-themed shoot.

    As one of the brand's beloved Angels, she will head to Shanghai, China in November to walk in the brand's annual fashion show which will air on CBS in December.

    The blonde bombshell was signed to VS in 2012 after walking for labels like Givenchy and Prada - and walked in the VS show in 2013 and 2014 before officially becoming an Angel in 2015.

    She recently opened up about getting along with the other VS Angels, explaining that they bond as they're all 'under pressure'.

    'We're all under the same amount of pressure, and we all shoot and travel together. So it's very crucial for us to be there for one another,' she told Elle Canada.

    'I love working out with the girls, I prefer to work out with them rather than by myself. They motivate me more and it's just more fun. It gets your mind off the pain when you have all of your girlfriends with you.'

    Martha added that the biggest fitness cheerleader in the group would have to be Jasmine Tookes or Elsa Hosk.

    Martha was discovered at a model search in Charlotte, North Carolina in 2004, which she entered after close friends repeatedly urged her to give modelling a try.

    The catwalk queen admitted that her model potential was so obvious, a surgeon even told her to be a model when she went for an operation.

    'I even had my appendix taken out, and the surgeon said to my parents, "She should try modeling!" ' she told W magazine. 'At that point we were like 'Okay, maybe we could try it.''

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  • پنجشنبه 6 مهر 1396

    Adut's triumph: the Australian refugee taking on the fashion world

    Adut Akech was packing her bags when we spoke on Friday. She’d finished high school just the day before, and that night the 17-year-old from Adelaide would be flying to France to take part in the Saint Laurent show, which marked the start of this year’s Paris fashion week.

    On Wednesday morning shots of her marching down the runway flew across fashionistas’ social media accounts; wearing a dramatic black-and-white top, short shorts and furry boots, hers was the final outfit in the much-applauded show. Akech has arrived.

    It’s a remarkable moment for any teenager – and even more so for the model now known by the moniker Adut, who was born in war-torn South Sudan and spent her early years in the Kakuma refugee camp in Kenya before arriving in Australia as a seven-year-old.

    On the phone, she sounds giddy with her newfound freedom, admitting it hasn’t quite sunken yet in that she has finished high school and is about to become a full-time model.

    In fact, she’s something of a Saint Laurent veteran. She made her international catwalk debut last September and has walked exclusively for the fashion house for the last two seasons. This year she’ll be doing the full schedule – and if Tuesday night’s show is anything to go by, she’ll be busy.

    It’s a strong start for Akech, who has been photographed for ID magazine, 10 magazine and Vogue Australia in the past year. She’s also featured in the much anticipated all-black Pirelli calendar for 2018, shot by Tim Walker, styled by the incoming Vogue UK editor Edward Enniful, and starring Naomi Campbell, Diddyand Whoopi Goldberg.

    Although the lineup is dazzling, the person Akech was most excited to meet was the actor Lupita Ngong’o, one of her role models, alongside Campbell and Alek Wek. It sounds as though Ngong’o may take her under her wing. “She told me to get in touch with her when I go down to New York, so I’m gonna do that,” says Akech, excitement creeping into her voice. “She said if I ever need any help or I need anything when I get to New York, just to get in touch with her.”

    And so this year, after the whirl of Paris fashion week, she won’t head home to Australia. “I’ll probably come back in the next two months to visit my family but yeah, I might be in Paris for a couple of weeks and then probably head down to New York,” she says.

    For a 17-year-old, Akech is well and truly a seasoned traveller. She doesn’t remember Sudan or the refugee camp but does recall the family settling in Nairobi before being transferred to Australia. She desperately wanted to attend the local school but it was too expensive for her single mother. “There were times when I’d walk to my cousin’s school to take her lunch there and I would just be at the gate, looking at all the kids playing in the playground and it kind of made me sad. I wished that was me.”School was what she was most excited about when the family found out they would be moving to Australia. “The free education and having the choice to actually go to school,” she said. “Back then I didn’t have a choice.”

    The family left Kenya with nothing more than a few clothes, and it was an exciting but nerve-wracking time for the six-year-old Akech. She was curious about who she would meet. “Back in Kenya, it was rare to see any white people, and I was like, ‘Wow what is it going to be like, being in this country?’ I’d heard that there were a lot of white people but we weren’t used to seeing white people so that was one of the things that was always on my mind.”

    She hesitates when I ask if landing in Adelaide was a culture shock. “It was different, it was something different,” she says cautiously, “but I was really looking forward to everything.”

    They settled into the community quickly, and for the most part, the family felt welcome. “Everybody has [discrimination], when you go to school and stuff, because you don’t know how to speak English that well. I had a few kids laugh at me but it’s like, we all didn’t really know how to speak English so that’s why we went to an English school.”

    Akech wanted to fit in as quickly as possible: “I just worked hard, I was like, I’m going to do the work that I get given and graduate from English school, so I can actually go to a normal school like a normal person.”

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  • سه شنبه 4 مهر 1396

    From Glow Job to Orgasm: how cosmetics brands got filthy

    Tom Ford’s new perfume is Fucking Fabulous – at least that’s what it’s called. Ford announced his latest fragrance during New York fashion week, and the name alone has caused a stir, with descriptions ranging from “racy” to “obscene”. Certainly, it’s a gear change for the designer, who has previously favoured more literal fragrance names – Tobacco Vanille, Tuscan Leather, Venetian Bergamot – but, in the increasingly risque world of cosmetics monikers, it is unlikely to raise eyebrows for long.

    Cosmetics’ names were once chosen for sentimental, rather than shock, value. Chanel’s numbered fragrance line marked dates including her birthday (No 19) for example, and Dolce & Gabbana’s Sophia Loren No 1 lipstick was released to commemorate the actor’s 81st birthday. Meanwhile, Nars’s Jungle Red lip and nail colour reference the nail polish from 1939’s The Women (a film that memorably featured not a single man).

    Yet Nars is far better known for Orgasm – a blush colour that managed to overshadow the likes of Threesome, Sex Appeal and, sadly, Mata Hari, in what is a relatively risque range – rivalled perhaps only by (the pigmentally similar) Deep Throat. This year, the brand launched an entire Orgasm collection off the back of its popularity. (Tagline: “Have more than one.”)

    “François [Nars, Nars’s founder and creative director] has always wanted to give the products an identity and character,” says Magalie Parksuwan, senior vice-president of marketing at the company. “He wants people to remember the names and to provoke.”

    The high street has embraced provocative and “rude” cosmetics, with brands such as Soap & Glory marketing innuendo-laden products, from Sexy Mother Pucker lip shine to Glow Job tinted foundation. Too Faced’s Boudoir Eyes palette skipped the puns entirely, with shadows titled Fuzzy Handcuffs and French Tickler, while the brand’s Better Than Sex mascara proved so popular that it inspired a line of shoes.

    Unsurprisingly, the ever-“edgy” Urban Decay has its own selection of suggestive cosmetics, including a blusher in Fetish (a name shared with a lipstick by Mac) and a lip gloss in Rule 34 (Google it). Illamasqua takes a more straightforward approach, with a rubber-finish nail varnish in Kink and an eye shadow simply called Sex. But can raunch-based retail really seduce potential customers? “It definitely has an impact,” says Parksuwan, “[but] there’s more to the success of a product than just that.”When Kylie Jenner, something of a bellwether for millennial makeup trends, released her blush collection in March, she ditched the sentimental nomenclature of her Lip Kits (Mary Jo K was a tribute to her grandmother and Dolce K was named after, er, the family dog) for vastly more provocative names including X-Rated, Virginity and Hot and Bothered. But it was her rosy pink Barely Legal which proved most controversial – sparking a similar backlash to that prompted by Kat Von D’s Underage Red lipstick in 2015.

    Even so, an Instagram search for #kyliecosmetics conjures more than two million posts – many of them photos of the products themselves; fully packaged, lascivious labels neatly aligned – which perhaps goes some way to explaining why suggestive stickers, no longer sheepishly consigned to the base of nail varnish pots, proliferate. “Names help to create a story and elicit a reaction [online],” says Parksuwan. And, given the epicurean competition, who would want to be #beige?

    That said, the chance to be immortalised in makeup may not yet be dead. Last week, Ford also expanded his Lips & Boys collection, which now features 100 lipsticks – each named after one of the designer’s closest friends.


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  • جمعه 31 شهریور 1396

    Gucci channels Elton John for its Milan fashion week show

    Heidegger’s thoughts on authenticity, Camus’ writings on the nature of rebellion, 17th-century cartography and the stage wear of Elton John – the catwalk show that opened Milan fashion week did not follow a formula smacking of obvious commercial success. But this is Gucci, where the designer Alessandro Michele’s avant-garde approach to luxury has confounded the industry.

    The fashion house’s financial results, released this summer, showed a phenomenal 43.4% sales growth. Even more striking is that Gucci, whose catwalk set mapped the Roman site of Horace’s Villa and whose show notes touched on post-structuralism, is adored by a younger generation most fellow heritage brands struggle to connect with: half of all Gucci customers were born after 1980.

    Michele is the most successful fashion designer of this decade despite – or perhaps because of – not seeming particularly interested in clothes. In a 25-minute pre-show briefing for editors, held in the grandly modernist Milan palazzo Gucci built for its golden boy, Michele did not mention a single garment.

    “Sometimes I think, it would be easier if I could just make some beautiful shoes for the shop. But no, I want to change the aesthetic of this whole company and that way I can change what fashion is. I want to make things that create possibility, that make an opportunity for the world to change and to grow,” he said.

    Diversity and authenticity are recurrent themes. “I am trying to push the idea of fashion, and to destroy the old codes of fashion,” said Michele, who was wearing a heavily embroidered jacket that an hour later featured on the catwalk worn by a female model.

    “Fashion is trying to keep alive codes which are from the age of the New Look, of Mr Dior. The old way of thinking that goes, ‘the new season is blue’ or ‘the new ballerina look’, I am not interested in that. And when the casting people say to me about a model, ‘she is beautiful, she is a new face, she has beautiful legs’ – I don’t care about that at all. I care about the way the girl is romantic, the way she sees the world, not that she looks a certain way. I want to tell stories so I think in a cinematic way.”

    Michele’s Gucci, steeped in Medici symbolism and Renaissance silhouettes when it burst on to the catwalk at the beginning of 2015, last year shifted toward disco and from there toward hip-hop, with many an eye-catching red herring – such as a fur-lined loafer – along the way.

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    This season the aesthetic took a turn toward glam rock, with clothes inspired by Elton John’s stage outfits. Tour jackets, high-waisted jumpsuits and power-shouldered blazers were worn by male models dripping in jewellery and female models whose crispy fringes resembled Renate Blauel, whom Elton John married on Valentine’s Day 1984.

    But for all its progressive talk, Gucci’s success is built on an identity that remains largely stable from season to season. Its fans will pay elevated prices because by rejecting the trend cycle, Michele sells pieces with a longer shelf life, remaining recognisably Gucci for more than one season.

    All the key elements of the Gucci aesthetic – slick 1970s sportswear, drugstore barrettes, shrunken trousersuits, rainbow stripes, geek-chic glasses, obtuse slogans, backless shoes, a certain old lady-ish silhouette of a fur coat over a long dress, Disney references, pearls – were in full effect.

    How Gucci turns this arthouse script into box office gold was hinted at with the invitation to the show. Each guest received an ornate pharmacy tin inscribed “GUCCY” containing candles, matches, scented paper and silk thread. “The show is a spell I cast on you,” explained the designer. “Like a wizard.”
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  • چهارشنبه 29 شهریور 1396

    London fashion week: Erdem's collection has wow factor in spades

    The make-or-break date of the autumn for Erdem Moralioğlu does not fall during fashion week. That is set for 2 November when his collaboration with H&M goes on sale. A hit on the high street will boost the profile and brand awareness of Erdem, as his label is known, more than any catwalk show ever could.

    But Monday’s catwalk show was nonetheless significant for the young London-based designer. It offered a moment for the industry to assess Erdem’s form as Moralioğlu approaches the biggest hurdle of his career so far, and it was a test he passed with flying colours.

    H&M collaborations are hugely popular for the opportunity they offer to buy the kind of recognisably special clothes that usually come with prohibitive price tags.

    Almost every piece in this collection had wow factor in spades.

    Erdem’s aesthetic is grown up and decidedly formal, which makes his high street hookup intriguing. His signature party dresses are gowns, rather than frocks. His clothes tend to have below-the-knee hemlines and, often, long slim sleeves, for an elegant line. He favours deep colours and fabrics stiffened with rich embellishment. He has a poetic, cinematic approach to fashion, fleshing every collection with a fully imagined backstory.

    Having the mass consumer in his sights has not prompted Erdem to dumb down his modus operandi. This collection suggested he intends to use the H&M spotlight as Matthew Williamson, in 2009, and Isabel Marant, in 2013, did before him, to showcase an offbeat aesthetic to a wider audience.

    The creation myth of this collection was a meeting between the Queen and Duke Ellington, which took place in Leeds in 1958. The encounter really happened – a photograph of the white-gloved young queen and tailcoated musician was reproduced on a board backstage at this show – and for Erdem it provided a jumping-off point for a collection that gave a late-night, jazz club twist to formal, decorous clothes.

    So enamoured was Duke Ellington on meeting the Queen he announced on the spot that he intended to write a piece of music for her. “Isn’t that just a beautiful gesture? And apparently her words to him on parting were: ‘I’ll be listening,’” recounted the designer after the show. “I love the idea that they made that connection between their worlds.”

    This collection showed a sexier side to the Erdem look, thanks to portrait necklines that bared models’ necks and shoulders, a contrast to the high-necked Victoriana he has become associated with. Images on the backstage moodboard drew parallels between the sweetheart necklines of couture gowns worn by the Queen in formal 50s portraits and the elegant strapless dresses worn by Billie Holiday on stage and by Dorothy Dandridge, the first black woman to be nominated for a best actress Oscar. “I started thinking, what if the Queen had gone to New York? Or, what if Dorothy Dandridge had come to Buckingham Palace? I mean, what might she have worn?” said the designer after his show.

    The ballroom-sized ghost floor that languishes behind closed doors on the top floor of Selfridges was reinvented for the show as a jazz club, after hours. The catwalk meandered between salt-licked martini glasses discarded under fringed lamps, a grand piano half hidden under a dust sheet and chairs stacked in readiness for the floor sweeper. The models were dressed for their society portraits, with long gloves and heirloom jewels, ringlets ponytailed with grosgrain ribbon bows. There were grand opera coats in emerald brocade and shapely tailored pieces in heritage tweeds.

    But the heart of the collection was in showstopper dresses that looked to have walked out of a Cecil Beaton photograph: shimmering pastel yellow and lush rose pinks, carefully ornamented with ribbon epaulettes and pearl edging.

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  • دوشنبه 27 شهریور 1396

    Festival fashion is stuck in the era of Kate Moss v Sienna Miller – with one exception

    There was once a myth, Charlotte, that festivals were Britain’s fashion crucibles. They were almost holy places where the edgiest new fashions were birthed and unveiled, and freelance photographers risked life and limb, throwing themselves in front of packs of young women in Reading and Somerset in the hope of catching an early glimpse of a nascent new style – half undone boilersuits, perhaps? Glitter on lips? Oh, what new style would emerge, like the Christ child, on this site of Sodom that might then merit that holiest of holiest of celebrations, a photo spread in Grazia?

    But then, a strange thing happened. It turned out festival fashion is, in fact, a lot like summer fashion, in that once people find something that works, it never, ever changes. And it turned out that festival fashion peaked in that seismic era we shall call the Boho Sienna/Kate’n’Pete era, and never altered a jot since. Oh, what was this magical era, you ask? Come closer children, Ol’ Granny Time here has tales to tell you from a long ago age.

    Once upon a time, back in ye olde 2004, a young fairy princess called Sienna Miller went to Glastonbury wearing a black, tiered mini dress, a studded belt, neon-framed sunglasses and a pair of Uggs, and even though it makes no sense to wear Uggs at a British festival, the world shook with excitement, and festival fashion was deemed to have been altered for ever. The following year, Kate Moss turned up with a strange feral pet, who was later discovered to answer to the name of Pete Doherty, and, having seen Miller’s audacious grab at fashion queen status the summer before, Moss upped her game, and stomped around Glastonbury in, alternately, a pair of hot pants teamed with a waistcoat, and a shimmery Lurex dress paired with wellies. The world applauded. Never mind Mayweather v McGregor: this was the era of real rivalries, the kind not seen since the legendary Country House v Roll With It battle that Britain has never really recovered from.

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    And that, to be honest, is kinda where festival fashion has stayed ever since. Oh, sure, the addition of Alexa Chung and her denim hot pants sparked some interest, but really, Mossy was doing that years ago. As a result, all festival fashion has amounted to ever since is hot pants with wellies, vintage-esque dresses (bought from Asos) with wellies – and that’s about the size of it. You can throw in a playsuit, here, a jumpsuit there, but, let’s be honest, they just look a bit try-hard, given everyone knows what a nightmare they will be when you have to undo them in the portable toilets. And, fine, celebrities can wear jazzy heels, or cropped tops, or prom dresses, but they don’t really count, given that festivals are now so luxe that celebrities don’t actually go to festivals: they stay in five-star Airstreams and occasionally step out to a VIP terrace to watch Ed Sheeran entertaining some peasants. What really counts is what “the civilians” are wearing, and the wisest of civilians have stuck pretty much to the 2004 and 2005 formula, if they can be bothered to make an effort at all.

    There is, however, one exception to this “festival fashion is nonsense” rule, and that is Bestival, which is happening this weekend. Now, I really take my hat off to this plucky little festival, which has somehow risen up to become Britain’s most delightful music festival, second only to the mighty G. I’ve been to Bestival three times and it really is the only one where dressing up doesn’t make people look like misguided attention-seekers. In fact, last time I went I didn’t dress up at all and I felt about as ridiculous as a person wearing a tutu and fairy wings in the middle of a thunderstorm at T in the Park. This, I think, is because the festival somehow manages to be quirky, but not in an annoying way, which is an incredibly difficult trick to pull off, given that “quirky” is usually Latin for “unbelievably effing annoying, confuses stupid hair colour and oversized glasses for a personality”. This means that if you don’t get into the spirit, you don’t look too-cool-to-try – you just look a bit rubbish.

    This year’s fancy dress theme (like I said, it’s quirky) is “colour”, which is definitely easier than last year’s “future”, although it does have fewer pleasingly camp possibilities than 2012’s “HMS Bestival” (I have a very strong memory of a young man in a tight Breton shirt, eyebrow-pencil moustache and chaps from that year, which is really quite a look to pull of on the Isle of Wight, in September, in the drizzle).

    So what I’m saying, Charlotte, is, frankly, forget festival fashion themes. It’s as absurd as saying “rainy-day fashion”: you’ll wear whatever gets you through unscathed and gangrene free. But the exception to this is actual fancy dress, and only Bestival manages to do this well, so we’ll have to wait until the end of this coming weekend for this year’s highlights. But I’ll leave you with words of wisdom from the goddess of festival dressing, Kate Moss, when I once asked her at Glastonbury what she was wearing: “Who cares?” Words to live by, my friends. Post your questions to Hadley Freeman, Ask Hadley, The Guardian, Kings Place, 90 York Way, London N1 9GU.

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  • جمعه 24 شهریور 1396

    A$AP Rocky

    His claim to have been responsible for the return of gold jewellery to the hip-hop community notwithstanding, A$AP always wears it well; an aficionado of Raf Simons and Jeremy Scott, a collaborator with JW Anderson and a dapper dresser who never disappoints.

    Rihanna

    If 56.3m fangirls are living for your every outfit post on Instagram, you may as well bottle it — and she has, with 10 perfumes to her name. But Ri is also a major fashion force, thanks to her Fenty x Puma range, as well as collaborations with Dior (sunglasses), Manolo Blahnik (shoes) and Chopard (fine jewellery). But her newest, and possibly most lucrative venutre is Fenty Beauty: watch it fly.

    Céline Dion

    Her heart will go on: thankfully for all of us, her devotion to designer labels will go on, too. Dion’s celebration of Dior, Prada, Valentino and (obvs) Céline is a joyous thing to behold, and the fun she has wearing it is a welcome antidote to all the po-faced seriousness out there, both in the fashion industry and in the world at large.

    Bella Hadid

    No longer just Gigi’s little sister, Hadid’s chameleon-like looks ensure she’s always in demand, whether on Tom Ford’s catwalk or Victoria’s Secret’s.

    Beyoncé

    For someone with the heft and majesty of Queen Bey, Knowles entered fairly cautiously into the fashion market, eschewing collaborations for the creation of an activewear range, Ivy Park. Its launch last April marked what is no doubt only the beginning of Bey’s fashion ambitions.

    Skepta

    ‘The clothes don’t make the man, the man makes the clothes,’ Joseph Junior ‘Skepta’ Adenuga told the Evening Standard back in June at the launch of his menswear range. Grime’s golden boy rarely wears his beloved Gucci, Vuitton and Chanel these days: he usually dons his own Mains creations instead. He says you can do great things in a tracksuit, and has a Mercury and an Ivor Novello to prove it.

    Cara Delevingne

    With a personal fortune estimated at £14m, Cara can afford to be picky about the fashion brands she works with, such as Burberry, Rimmel and Chanel. Since her successful move into the film world (Valerian and Kids in Love) a Cara catwalk appearance is as rare as a hen’s tooth.

    Kim Kardashian West

    Whatever you think of this unapologetic figure, Kim shifts units, whether of husband Kanye’s Yeezy range or any other label she gets in front of the eyeballs of her 103m Instagram followers. Balmain, Givenchy and Valentino are just some of the beneficiaries of her patronage — seeing her as anything other than an astute businesswoman is a grave misjudgement.

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  • چهارشنبه 22 شهریور 1396

    Gucci to collaborate with bootlegger Dapper Dan

    What a difference 25 years make. Throughout the eighties and nineties, Dapper Dan, sometimes known as the Hip Hop tailor of Harlem, clothed rappers, drug dealers, boxers and anyone else who could afford it, in designs that bootlegged high fashion brands, including Gucci, Fendi and Louis Vuitton. As might be expected, these brands were less than thrilled. In 1992, his business was effectively shut down by lawyers acting on behalf of Fendi. Fastforward to 2017, however, and things have changed. It was announced this week that Gucci would be collaborating with Dan to reopen his store and atelier, using Gucci’s fabrics with the Italian brand’s approval. A collaboration between Gucci and Dan will follow in the spring. Dan himself will star in the ad campaign.There’s a backstory to this news. In May, Gucci were slammed for a jacket included in the cruise collection which had an uncanny resemblance to one that Dan had created for Olympic runner Diane Dixon in 1989. Dixon took to social media to showcase the comparison, posting a picture of the jacket on the catwalk with one of her in the eighties with the caption “‘Bish’ stole my look! Give credit to @dapperdanharlem He did it FIRST in 1989!” The bootlegger has, it seemed, become the bootlegged.

    Chatter online afterwards was angry about the lack of credit for Dan, with Teen Vogue seeing it as an example of how the industry fails black people, and many more suggesting this was cultural appropriation. Gucci’s decision to help Dan re-open his store could, cynically, be seen as a way to avoid bad press but it would be a very expensive one. Instead, it’s a shrewd move of a brand on the up, through a kind of anything-goes inclusivity.

    Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele sees the influence of Dan on his work as part of his intertextual way of working – one of his collections might just as easily reference Donald Duck, Walter Benjamin, Voltaire and Botticelli in the same breath. This partnership with Dan acknowledges the place that the Harlem designer has in fashion history though – and takes Michele’s Guccinaissance on to the next level of branding, logomania with the creative freedom of a counterfeiter. “It is the time to say that fashion is not just the windows of a Fifth Avenue store,” Michele said to the New York Times. “It’s more. It’s about culture. It’s about self-expression. It’s about expression of a point of view.”

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