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جمعه 30 تیر 1396

We are seeing a growing trend of women dressing more conservatively. More women are dressing to be noticed for style and fashion rather than in a manner that might be considered overtly sexy. Styles on the “modest” continuum range from apparel that offers fuller coverage for religious reasons to pieces that offer less coverage but are artistic, interesting and fashion-forward.

I spoke with Sonia Trehan, cofounder of RUH Collective, a mainstream modest fashion company that launched in June 2016. The founders set out to create a modern brand that would appeal to a thoughtful, fashion-forward woman, and Trehan admitted that the company had an interesting start. She had studied religion at Columbia University, specializing in Islam, and met her cofounder, Soni Ruh, the brand’s fashion designer, after graduation. While at Columbia, Trehan had learned that many Muslim women use fashion to express their identity and break down stereotypes, and she and Ruh wanted to create a brand that was modern, fresh and mainstream rather than focused on religion in the same way that many other modest brands were. The RUH Collective website now offers carefully curated, sustainably made items such as palazzo pants, jumpsuits, joggers, maxi dresses, kimonos, tops and skirts.

When RUH Collective launched, Trehan anticipated that 70% to 80% of its customers would come from the Muslim community, as the company’s clothes, being long and loose, are technically geared to Muslim women. However, she was surprised to learn that non-Muslim professionals ages 20–35 not only accounted for approximately half of the brand’s sales, but were also some of the brand’s biggest champions.

When Trehan discovered that sales were being generated from this unexpected customer base, she reached out to a few customers and asked if they would mind speaking to her, so she could learn more about their preferences and choices. Some of the young professionals she spoke with told her that they felt comfortable in long, beautiful, interesting clothes and that they felt they did not have to be obvious about being sexy. Some customers who were more artistic and creative said they enjoyed dressing in a way that evoked different cultures. One said that she enjoyed wearing more subtle styles as opposed to being “the woman in the miniskirt.”

Trehan added that some customers expressed joy when they learned about the company’s sustainability initiatives—where the company makes its clothes, the factories it uses and the ethical processes it adheres to. She noted that RUH Collective’s core customer is a thoughtful person who is interested in how these clothes make her feel and how they feel on the skin.

Trehan was also surprised to learn from some of RUH Collective’s Muslim customers that they felt conflicted and somewhat suspicious about the burgeoning modest fashion market. Due to recent hype about the industry, these customers were not sure which brands they could trust, and some felt as though retailers were simply targeting them as a group to make money off of them. Trehan said that this was critical in really understanding the company’s core customer and how she was feeling and identifying with who she was. At the end of the day, we all want the same things, Trehan noted, and our clothes should be inspiring and aspirational and beautiful, no matter what styles we choose.

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  • پنجشنبه 22 تیر 1396

    ‘The vending machine trunks only got one outing’ Jonathan Freedland

    Perhaps the very last time I gave even the most fleeting thought to beachwear was exactly 10 years ago, during a family summer holiday to France. We weren’t on the beach but in a municipal pool, for an afternoon of splashing around with my two kids, then aged six and three.

    We’d not been there long when I could hear my wife, Sarah, remonstrating with a lifeguard in Spanish. Which was odd – because we were in France – but not wholly unexpected. In moments of stress or confrontation involving non-English speakers, when only complete fluency will do, Sarah tends to revert to her excellent Spanish rather than her slightly less accomplished French. That the lifeguard did not speak a word of Spanish was scarcely relevant.

    The issue, it turned out, was with my son’s swimming trunks. They were too long. The rule of the pool was that they be short, Speedo-style budgie-smugglers rather than knee-length shorts. I approached, but that only escalated matters. The guard pointed at my billowing shorts and said I had to leave the pool too. I can’t be sure, but I think he may have blown his whistle.

    The two of us were directed to a vending machine that, incredibly, sold trunks-in-a-box. Two pairs cost me a fair few euros but also some dignity, once the two of us emerged in the mandated briefs. My son looked fine, but I was a pointed reminder of why Daniel Craig caused a global sensation in that scene from Casino Royale: it’s a look mere mortals, whose stomachs are less washboard than laundry bag, struggle to pull off. The vending machine trunks only ever got that one outing.

    ‘Painted toenails are mandatory’ Arwa Mahdawi

    I used to think “beach fashion” was an oxymoron. Who looks stylish at the beach? You can look hot, sure – literally and figuratively – but you can’t look cool. As I grew older and sartorially wiser, however, I learned that beauty and the beach are, indeed, compatible, and have developed a signature seaside style.

    One of my favourite things to wear at the beach is sand. Or, as I like to call it, “nature’s glitter”. I’ve found that sunscreen, liberally and lazily applied, makes a great base for sand. And the overall result lends texture and an exfoliating edge to every outfit.

    Another of my tried-and-tested beachwear trends is fun tan-tattoos. If you cycle through a variety of different strappy tops you can achieve an interesting amalgamation of tan lines. It’s sort of like body art, via the medium of melanin.

    I also enjoy wearing jean shorts to the beach. The great thing about jeans shorts is that they’re basically like jeans but shorter. Importantly, they allow your legs to breathe. Most of the year my legs are stuck in skinny jeans so this is the rare moment they’re able to get out in the world and I find it very freeing.

    I tend to flip-flop about the right footwear but painted toenails are mandatory. If you go to the beach and don’t Instagram your ocean-facing feet then did you really go to the beach?

    In general, my beachwear mantra is not-hot-not-bothered. The only thing worse than people who look like they’ve made too much of an effort for the seaside are people who turn up to the airport in evening wear because they think that will get them an upgrade.

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  • شنبه 17 تیر 1396

    The beauty benefits of roses have been touted for centuries. From the stress relieving properties of its aroma to the healing oil extracted from the rosehip, plenty of claims have been made about the magic this flower can work.

    Should we buy into the hype? Sometimes. But only after careful research on a per product basis and with great caution even then. While, for example, rosehip oil can help even out skin tone and fade scars, it’s no real match for high-tech retinols. And the scent can make it an irritant for some very sensitive skins.

    But if you like a more natural, fragrant approach to beauty, try these rose-imbued products.

    Kypris 1,000 Roses: You might be disappointed to learn that this powerful serum has no fragrance whatsoever, but that’s a bonus for those with sensitive or breakout-prone skin. This formulation is devoid of all the usual irritants, making it a safe bet for most skins. A treatment oil packed with powerful antioxidants like CoQ-10, Kypris 1,000 Roses is especially good for dry, dehydrated, combination or acne-prone faces. All that and it will reduce sun spots, scarring, and other skin discoloration. If you’re looking for a natural alternative to expensive serums from the usual department store suspects—and if your skin freaks out during your menstrual cycle—this is the product for you.

    Neal’s Yard Wild Rose Beauty Balm: A cult beauty product for over 30 years, this is the ultimate multi-tasker. Plenty of people use it as a cleanser, and it does a great job of removing makeup and oil. But frankly, it’s way too gorgeous a product to rinse off your skin so quickly. Wild Rose Beauty Balm makes a soothing final layer on your face when you’re breaking out—even if you have oily skin. The rosehip oil in this is a reparative antioxidant, and smoothing on just a dab of this on top of your serum will reduce redness and ensure skin doesn’t overproduce oil or aggravate acne. It also makes a gorgeous lip balm and will moisturize cuticles without the mess of a gloppy oil.

    Melvita Damask Rose Floral Water: Most “rose waters” on the market are little more than plain water with fragrance added.But this organic hydrator is legit and is one of France’s most popular skincare products. With added glycerin, this spritz makes a superb neutralizer to spray over the face after using exfoliating acids. Use it to set or refresh makeup throughout the day, and pop it into your handbag for a quick wake-up mist anytime.

    REN Moroccan Rose Otto: Once you get a whiff of this exotic scent originating from Northern Africa, you’ll want every single product in the range. It delivers all the floral impact without a trace of old lady smell. The Moroccan Rose Otto Body Wash ($28) energizes in the morning and calms at night, while the Moroccan Rose Otto Sugar Body Polish ($60) stimulates circulation and leaves skin smooth and soft as a rose petal. Just a few pumps of the Moroccan Rose Otto Ultra-Moisture Body Oil ($65) gives your body a fragrant glow that dries instantly with no greasy residue. If you want to sample the range at a steep discount, Sephora is now offering the REN Moroccan Rose Otto Gift Duo ($49). It includes both the Moroccan Rose Otto Body Wash and Body Lotion, which would cost $74 if purchased separately. Warning: These are gateway products. You’ll soon be buying the entire collection.

    Amarté Rose Gold Collection: Dr. Craig Kraffer, who founded the superstar skincare site Dermstore in 1999, continues his visionary work with this Korean-inspired range to address acne, scarring and dehydration. Loaded with reparative antioxidants, argan oil and other botanical ingredients, these luxurious products absorb instantly and are an excellent way to evade the extreme shine and breakouts that frequently plague summer skin. Amarté Wonder Cream ($120) is teeming with peptides to build up collagen and plump the skin without lingering on its surface. This is the daytime moisturizer that won’t make you look like you’re having a meltdown in the heat and humidity. Amarté Hydrolift Cream ($70) includes retinol to help even out skin tone, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and restore suppleness. Amarté Aqua Veil Hydrator ($65) is a light but substantial serum to layer under moisturizer for an ultra-hydrating boost you can use AM or PM, but its faint cucumber scent makes it especially refreshing in the morning. (Full disclosure: None of these products contain any rose whatsoever. But their rose gold packaging will look so good on your bathroom counter that you won’t mind at all.)

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  • پنجشنبه 15 تیر 1396

    Scary Spice Mel B Went Posh in Pink Latex and Lace-Up Sandals

    Melanie Brown may be best known as Scary Spice from the Spice Girls, but the star went posh for her latest walk on the red carpet. She joins an ever-growing list of celebrities who are turning “pretty in pink” attire into a red carpet mainstay, such as Zendaya and Gigi Hadid, who both transformed into life-size Barbies for their respective industry events as of late. Mel B, however, skirted the doll-like aesthetic in lieu of a more sultry look.

    Brown chose a skin-tight latex dress in bubblegum pink. While the form-fitting number was enough to turn heads on its own, the singer’s shoes were just as eye-catching. In fact, the lace-up sandals had actual eyes as part of the shoe’s elaborate embellishments. The style, from Dsquared2’s spring ’17 runway show, also featured a fuchsia heart and red cross ,which added pops of color to her outfit.

    Other stars at the event alongside Brown were co-hosts Simon Cowell, Heidi Klum and Howie Mandel, as well as host Tyra Banks.

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  • سه شنبه 13 تیر 1396

    From Kim Murray to Jelena Djokovic, these are the stylish spectators to watch during Wimbledon

    Wimbledon officially starts today, kicking off two whole weeks of racketing action. Off the court, though, there’s a whole other scene to take in, as the most stylish celebrities and sporty spouses turn up to support their friends and loved ones, whilst giving their best take on the oh so British ‘country casuals’ dress code. Kim Murray’s blow dry is now as synonymous with the game as the strawberries and cream, but there are several other fashion players worth noting in the stands. These are the tennis wives and girlfriends (and husbands and boyfriends) worth taking your eye off the ball for...

    Kim Murray

    Tennis star spouse: Andy Murray

    Courtside style signatures: Now expecting her second child with husband Andy, Kim’s Wimbledon 2017 wardrobe will be full of polished maternity-wear. Expect her to pick flared incarnations of her favourite Kate Spade dresses, accessorised with obligatory oversized sunglasses and an Aspinal bag or five.

    Mirka Federer

    Tennis star spouse: Roger Federer

    Courtside style signatures: Mirka and Roger are now British society favourites after attending Pippa Middleton’s wedding this year, and they regularly sit front row at Paris Fashion Week, too, alongside their friend, Vogue editor Anna Wintour. Mrs Federer’s fashion repertoire in the stands includes Gucci jumpers, Chanel handbags and Cavalli shirt dresses as she hosts friends like David Beckham and Bradley Cooper in the team box.

    David Lee

    Tennis star spouse: Caroline Wozniacki

    Courtside style signatures: Since Wozniacki and NBA player Lee started dating at the end of last year, they’ve been basking in a (Valencia-filtered) glow posting gorgeous photos for their adoring one million fans to see on social media. Expect Lee to break the dress code in the box and bring some nonchalant, basketball attire into the mix - topped off with those jock trademark, Instagram-ready sunglasses.

    David Lee

    Tennis star spouse: Caroline Wozniacki

    Courtside style signatures: Since Wozniacki and NBA player Lee started dating at the end of last year, they’ve been basking in a (Valencia-filtered) glow posting gorgeous photos for their adoring one million fans to see on social media. Expect Lee to break the dress code in the box and bring some nonchalant, basketball attire into the mix - topped off with those jock trademark, Instagram-ready sunglasses.

    Michal Navara

    Tennis star spouse: Dominika Cibulkova

    Courtside style signatures: Slovakian star Dominika married Michal last year in a stunning ceremony in Bratislava. Navara may have a hipster beard, but he always suits up for Cibulkova’s tennis engagements, so expect him to have a go at the classic straw hat, navy jacket and chinos combination that Wimbledon regulars Bradley Cooper and Jude Law don.

    Ester Berdych Satorova

    Tennis star spouse: Tomas Berdych

    Courtside style signatures: She’s a Czech model signed with the world-famous Wilhelmina agency in Miami, so her spectator style is that classic model-off-duty combination of denim shorts and a white t-shirt. The other staple? A pair of Dior’s mirrored sunglasses.

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  • جمعه 9 تیر 1396

    Who Said Pajamas and Nightgowns Are Only For Sleeping?

    The ultimate dream for me is to get up from bed and just go out in my pajamas. “I woke up like this” hair doesn’t cut it if you don’t have the outfit to back it up.

    Thanks to runway shows and trendsetters like Gigi Hadid and Selena Gomez, pajamas continue to be a trendy must-have. The styles range from button-downs as seen from Thakoon and Michael Kors; to silky nightgowns from Prabal Gurung.

    The key to the pajama trend is comfort while wearing a loose-fitting ensemble. This also gives you room to play around with shoes and accessories. For Gigi, she wore ankle-high boots to complement her pajama bottoms’ wide hem and made it sexier by showing off her red bra. You can also opt to wear pumps like Selena for a sophisticated look. Do the same for your slip dresses.

    If you don’t feel like looking too dressed-up, you can always go for the classic sneakers or flat boots for a more casual get-up.

    Tempted to try this trend out? We’ve picked out PJ-like pieces for you. (Unless you really want to go out in your just-slept-in clothes, that’s fine too.)

    Olivia von Halle Lila Striped Silk-Satin Pajama Set

    Inspired by the pajamas worn by Coco Chanel, this Olivia von Halle set has traditional stripes that’ll make you look taller. You can also wear them together or separately.

    Victoria’s Secret Ribbed Sleep Cami

    A lightweight cami is ideal during warm days. Whether you’re going out for errands or a party, opt for this one from Victoria’s Secret. Pair it with your jeans, shorts, or skirts. Throw on a blazer over it even.

    H&M Cotton Nightshirt

    No one will know that you’re wearing a nightshirt with this piece. If you’re into wearing oversized shirt dresses to cut time, grab H&M’s Cotton Nightshirt. Pair it with sneakers to complete the laidback feel.

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  • چهارشنبه 7 تیر 1396

    Who is Marta Ortega, the Zara heiress and most influential name in fashion you've never heard of?

    Despite being the second richest man in the world, Zara founder Amancio Ortega usually keeps a low profile. But this weekend, the paparazzi caught the Spanish billionaire in a rare ‘display’ of mega-wealth in St Tropez, as boat watchers salivated over his £41.2 million super-yacht.

    For the fashion crowd, though, there was something else on board to catch the eye - and, alas, it wasn’t 81 year-old Mr Ortega’s (inevitably Zara-bought) bathing suit. His 33 year-old daughter and the heiress to his empire, Marta Ortega, was also present, and flexing her impeccable taste for resortwear. The appearance has, consequently, given us a rare insight into the woman who is likely behind 20% of the contents in an average British woman’s wardrobe.

    Marta acts as a senior creative consultant on all Zara Woman collections, and evidently has first pick of the new clothes before they hit stores. Despite her wealth (her father was worth £65 billion at last count) Ortega actually practices what she preaches, mixing her fully-stocked high street wardrobe with a few choice designer buys.

    It’s thought that she’s the one, over her two siblings, who will take over the family business if her apparent-workaholic father ever retires, and she has been working her way up the ranks since beginning her career at the family firm as a shop girl in the Oxford Street store, during her Business Management studies in London.

    With a circle of friends that includes Athena Onassis and Spain’s Queen Letizia (who is regularly spotted in Zara), Marta also is an established show-jumper, meaning that she’s a key figure in the Spanish equestrian social set. The entire family is, however, notoriously private, and great efforts have been made to keep her personal relationships out of the papers.

    In 2012, Marta married fellow champion rider Sergio Alvarez Moya in a private ceremony on her father’s estate, with an altar designed by sculptor Anish Kapoor - forgoing a bargain Zara look for a Narciso Rodriguez couture gown, just this once. After splitting some months ago, she is now in a relationship with Carlos Torretta, a model agent who establishes deals for Kendall Jenner and Adriana Lima in Europe. Torretta is the son of Roberto Torretta, the Argentinian designer and vice president of ACME , the Association of Fashion Creators of Spain and Carmen Echevarría, a woman who counts Jane Birkin among the clients at her Madrid boutique, meaning that this new relationship would only serve to seal the credentials of the first family of Spanish fashion.

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  • دوشنبه 5 تیر 1396

    They may be newcomers to Tokyo, but behind the fashion names picking up traction this summer is a wealth of experience combined with honed artisanal skills.

    Affordable minimalism

    The beauty of origami folds, pleats and twists in clothing is usually something that could only be appreciated by frequenting luxury fashion houses and having deep pockets. But now a new local brand is encapsulating the intrigue of Japanese minimalism and applying it to a range of clothing that is far more accessible than those that have come before it.

    UN3D (pronounced “un-threed”) launched in 2016 with both women’s and menswear and has quickly ballooned to hosting a standalone shop in Aoyama. Its raison d’etre is the study of geometry, asymmetry and folds in wearable clothing, with a decidedly unisex and minimalist approach to silhouettes.

    Colors are generally muted and are monotone or paired to complement the abstract accessories and statement shoes that match the quirky designs.

    The brand’s name alludes to its manifesto of being unconventional, and the designer knows a thing or two about breaking out from the mold: Momoko Ogihara rose to fame as one of the breakout stars of the Shibuya fashion scene, co-opting her unique personal style into a wildly successful 109-mall brand called Murua before stepping down to create UN3D.

    Modest luxury

    People often say that the journey can be better than its destination, but in the case of new brand and boutique M, both are equally fantastic. M is located inside the grounds of the Kanda Myojin Shrine, which was founded in 730 AD. You enter through the shrine’s main gate and traverse multiple architectural wonders before you arrive in the back, where on the right is a stark white building housing the M shop in room 302.

    The brand may be new, but the designer is true-blue veteran Michiko Nakayama, who headed the popular brand Muveil for 10 years. Although Nakayama has built a cult following for her unusual collection themes, it comes as a surprise to see that M strips her design ethos down to its core with small editions of simple but luxe clothing. Nakayama explains, “This isn’t about seasonal themes of kitsch, it is about essential quality and the utmost comfort.”

    The silhouettes are roomy yet elegant, straddling the lines of city wear and luxe lounge wear. Until the 29th of June, anyone can drop by the chic salon-like store, but afterward, M requests that customers make appointments via the website.

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  • جمعه 2 تیر 1396

    Are Roller Skate Shoes Due For A Comeback?

    First, came the light-on sneaker revival. And now, the nostalgia for roller skates has once again caught on. From Charlotte Olympia to Saint Laurent and Veja, designers are playfully mounting sneakers to four wheels, with varying results. But the question is: are these lo-fi retro rollers collectables or wearables?

    For her resort ’18 collection, Olympia Dellal released a witty take rife with rainbows, metallic laces and glitter wheels. They are very charming, but don’t look exactly prepared to contend with city streets or replace one’s metrocard.

    Ethically-minded French sneaker brand Veja took a crack at the skater shoe too, recently releasing an impressively-engineered sneaker with removable wheels in collaboration with Flaneurz, a clever new snap-on roller skate label that came to market last year. It was started by four friends – Florian Gravier, Arnaud Darut, Walid Nouh and David Brun – with a passion for reviving the category. To date, their retro roller skates are sold on their site as well as a slew of influential boutiques such as Colette, Merci, Citadium, Le Refuge, Alex Eagle Studio and Anthom NYC.

    How did the collaboration with Veja come about? And why did you want to collaborate with them?

    “The Veja X Flaneurz adventure started in June 2015. Back then, Veja was already one of the first brands that had faith in us. Veja’s concept store “Centre Commercial” commercialized the Pantanal model, a dress shoe, during it’s fall ’13 collection. This model was turned into Flaneurz rollerskates during our crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter. This joint adventure is now taking an even greater and stronger dimension. We share the same values with Veja.”

    How did the idea for Flaneurz come about? And how long did it take to develop your On Wheelz?

    “The idea came from the mind of our co-founder, Florian. He has always been a huge fan of roller skating — he was even making his own roller skates when he was younger. He also pays great attention to detail and style, that’s why he thought about fancy sneakers that could be turned into roller skates. It took three years of research and development to come to this product.”

    What are your professional backgrounds and how did that bring you to roller skates?

    “Florian has a rider past. He is part of SkateXpress, a roller dance crew. He has learned communication and traveled a lot before meeting Arnaud and starting the Flaneurz story. Arnaud has an engineer formation from the Arts et Métiers. He worked in different areas as diverse as connected objects and [the] perfume industry.”

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