Top designers from the women’s industry weigh in on trends that made the cut and missed the mark this year.
Top trend: “Over-the-knee boot — it continues to prevail as a leading silhouette each fall.”
Least favorite trend: “With so many great trends for 2016, [I choose to] focus on the positive when reflecting back.”
Top trend: “My favorite trend was the flatform, especially those from Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu and Gucci. I love the way they look. My favorite is our Tessa style in the multicolor balloon print or flower-printed leather.”
Least favorite trend: “Crocs. I just can’t bring myself to wear this trend. As a woman, I want to wear shoes that make me feel sexy and feminine.”
Top trend: “Velvet. Just gorgeous and set to continue.”
Least favorite trend: “Flatforms. Ugh.”
Top trend: “Definitely the sneaker trend. I live and die in my Riko low-top shoes; having a classic sneaker with a unique detail is perfect for me.”
Least favorite trend: “One trend I have noticed is incredibly high heels or unusual heels that aren’t so conducive to walking. It’s important to have a range of heel heights that are stylish, but also comfortable and realistic.”
Jerome C. Rousseau
Top trend: “The return to mid-height heels. It has been refreshing to see women adopt chic, sexy shoes on lower heel heights in 2016. As a designer, it’s a nice challenge to create shoes that still feel feminine and luxurious on lower heel heights and even on heavier heel silhouettes.”
On the whole, the 2016 edition of the annual review has charted positive growth in the diversity of models fronting glossy magazines. Unsurprisingly, the Insta-supermodels of the day have been the most in-demand cover girls the year (Gigi Hadid fronted 14 titles, including eight Vogue editions, Kendall Jenner scored 10, and Gigi’s sister, Bella Hadid, secured nine) but there were other promising takeaways from the report, including the fact that, for the first time, women who are 50 and over gained 34 covers in 2016, accounting for 5 percent of all bookings.
The report also assessed which magazines are representing more women of colour than ever before and which titles are, as such, lagging behind while the industry as a whole progresses. It claims that magazines were significantly more racially diverse than they were last year, featuring 29% non-white cover stars, up by 7% on 2015’s review. This step, while seemingly fractional, still outpaces the proportion of models of colour who appeared during the latest round of runway shows, which, despite being the most diverse season on record, still only featured 25.4% nonwhite faces.
VogueTaiwan and Vogue India were both cited by the report as “front-runners in the fight for change”, thanks to their almost completely non-white line ups, a celebration that seems slightly warped considering the target demographics in those countries.
On British newsstands, however, Elle UK was found to be the leader of the glossy pack, with five of its 12 editions featuring women of colour on the front.
“One thing that I’m super proud of at Elle is that diversity is just implicit for us, nothing is tokenistic,” says Acting Editor Lotte Jeffs. “The popular culture moment that we exist within is so diverse that to not reflect that on our covers would almost be more of a statement than it would be to reflect it.”
“If you look through our magazine we have a whole mix of different types of people, and those people are being featured purely because they are the ones who are doing cool and interesting stuff. We never assume that our reader is white and we never assume that our reader is straight - we’re gender neutral, which for a women’s magazine is quite a bold step.”
Over the last year Elle UK’s talent roster has included Beyonce, Kylie Jenner, Amy Adams and Lupita Nyong’o as cover stars, but Jeffs says that the magazine’s September issue, which featured four famous faces, was the real stand-out for her.
“I think it’s really good benchmark of the new guard of our industry,” she says. “We had Kristen Stewart, who is openly gay and talked about her girlfriend in the interview, we had Zayn Malik who talked about being a young Muslim from Bradford, then Amandla Stenberg who is black and genderqueer and Hari Nef who is a transgender model. But it wasn’t like we set out to find five people who were as unconventional as we could find. The theme of the issue was change, we had redesigned the magazine and we wanted to find people who were icons of change and who were rebelling in their fields.”
A new collaboration between ethical luxury brand Maiyet and four Chinese designers aims to arouse interest in sustainability in fashion.
“It surprised me that sustainability is a relatively new topic in the marketplace beyond the US,” says Karen Wood, head of development at Maiyet. “It’s really about education in multiple markets, although I feel Hong Kong and China are at a tipping point as there is increasing awareness about ethical and environment issues in fashion such as transparency and sourcing,” she says.
Maiyet launched in 2011 hoping to promote sustainability, self-sufficiency and entrepreneurship in developing economies.
Its commercially successful collections have straddled high fashion and social responsibility, while raising ethical issues in fashion production.
Maiyet has just partnered with local retailer Lane Crawford to create two capsule collections using the world’s only certified, ethical and environmentally sustainable cashmere yarn. The first features a series of limited editions by four Chinese designers - China-based Helen Lee, Ziggy Chen and Daniel Chen of Xu Zhi and Hong Kong stylist Denise Ho.
“We decided to create a cashmere capsule collection over a year ago but the Chinese designer component came later,” says Wood. “We looked at a number of emerging designers through Lane Crawford’s ‘Created in China’ programme who had experience working in knits and decided to provide them with raw cashmere to spin into designs. It was important to give them full creative freedom,” she says.
Menswear designer Ziggy Chen produced an oversized frayed sweater with colour blocks and a detachable scarf that can be styled into a myriad of looks, while Helen Lee’s sweater is decorated with intricate 3D appliqués, frayed stripes and tiered fringes. Zhi’s cardi coat comes with an ombré effect.
The color green. What does it make you think of? Leaves? Grass? The Philadelphia Phanatic? The Hulk? Money — money you don’t have. Ah. Ooo. Don’t let yourself think about that now. Calm your mind and whisper, Green. That felt good. Do it again. Green. You’re getting there. Mindfulness. Peace. Apple. But not Apple Paltrow. Just a regular apple, one you’d encounter in an orchard. Bite it. Delicious. Crisp. Instagram.
Green. No, I mean — greenery. What does greenery mean to you? What it means to everyone right now is that it is the Pantone Color of the Year. Remember that? Last year, we had rose quartz and serenity — pink and blue, like the colors of babies. But babies are over. No more babies in this world. Too dangerous. Instead, now, we have greenery. What comes to mind when you whisper the word greenery?
Grass. Certainly. Grapes. Of course. Kermit the Frog. Him! Yes, him. The frog is important — every year, last year, next year. Meditate and center your thoughts on the frog. He whispers, “That’s none of my business,” and you say yes. You laugh. You’re in a field, laughing from your belly. Laugh from your belly now. Whisper that’s none of my business. Focus on the term “tea lizard.” You remember that? Laugh again. It is good to laugh. You’re surrounded by idiots.
Matcha. Lots of people are Instagramming about it. Don’t think about those people now. Fiddleheads. Lots of people Instagrammed about that, too. Put those people out of your mind. You know how you feel about them. Shh. You can unfollow them. Greenery. Focus. You’re in a field. You’re at Stonehenge. How did you get here? Nothing. Nowhere. Everyone is far away. No one. Silence. You reach for your phone. Your hands are made of felt, like a puppet. That feels nice.
Aliens. Why do we assume they’re green? Or are they the color of greenery? Imagine. They find you in a field. At Stonehenge. Beam you up. Green. Good-bye. You’re gone. You look down at Earth and you see green. A putting green. A man is golfing. And you are far, far away.
Supreme Court Rules in Favor of Samsung in Apple Patent Case
The U.S. Supreme Court told a lower court to take another look at a $399 million award won by Apple Inc. from rival Samsung Electronics Co. for copying the design of the iPhone. The unanimous decision extends a legal battle that dates back to 2011 and at one point spanned the globe and engulfed every major maker of smartphones.
Writing for the court, Justice Sonia Sotomayor said Apple might not be entitled to Samsung’s entire profit on 11 infringing smartphones. She told a federal appeals court to consider whether Apple should be able to recoup profits attributable only to particular components. The high court stopped short of deciding that question itself.
Sotomayor said the lower court’s approach "cannot be squared with the text" of the federal patent statute.
Design patents, which cover the ornamental look of an object rather than any functional aspect, are increasingly used by tech companies and makers of consumer products to differentiate their products from competitors. The Supreme Court hadn’t considered design patents since disputes involving spoon handles in the 1870s and carpets in the 1890s.
The legal issues in the case narrowed after the high court accepted it in March. Apple said it accepted that in some cases the patent holder can collect only the profit attributable to a particular component, and not the earnings from the entire product.
Apple argued, however, that Samsung failed to show that the patented designs applied only to part of its phones. Samsung contended that it was Apple’s burden to show that the infringement gave Samsung any increased profits.
Google, Facebook Inc., EBay Inc. and Hewlett Packard Enterprise Co. said in filings that a victory for Apple would allow owners of design patents to extract unfair rewards on products that can have hundreds or even thousands of features.
A federal appeals court said Apple could collect Samsung’s entire profit.
Apple introduced the iPhone in 2007, revolutionizing an industry that before then had received limited interest from consumers. Apple said that Samsung simply copied the look of the iPhone to avoid a loss of market share.
Selena Gomez Steps Out in Pajamas Before Donning Sexy All-Black Ensemble at Catch LA
Selena Gomez is back and healthier than ever -- and perhaps comfier, too!
The "Good For You" singer stepped out in Santa Monica, California, on Friday wearing a surprising clothing item -- pajamas!
While grabbing dinner with a friend at Mexican restaurant El Cholo, Gomez donned navy blue pajamas, which she topped with a long black duster to combat the California cold. These were no ordinary PJs, however -- the silk set featured white piping, plus the singer upped the chic appeal by pairing the cozy two-piece with black pumps and red lips.
After the meal, the duo went shopping along Santa Monica's Third Street Promenade before heading into a recording studio.
Then Gomez turned heads in equally eye-catching, if not slightly more traditional, attire on Saturday during a night out at West Hollywood hot spot Catch LA.
The 24-year-old pop star rocked an all-black ensemble that included a low-cut crop top, straight-leg pants, strappy sandals, and a thick choker. Her dewy makeup perfectly complemented the dark duds and gave her an all-over glow, thanks to a bronzed smoky eye, sunny tan, and nude but shimmery lips.
Gomez has been getting back to a normal routine after a much-publicized break from the spotlight earlier this year. She's been seen out and about in L.A., but the splashiest moment came at her first red carpet appearance at last month's 2016 American Music Awards, where her heartfelt acceptance speech brought plenty of fans to tears.
More recently, she opened up about what those 90 days of solitude were like. "During that time I did not have my cellphone," Gomez explained while participating in Thrive Global's questionnaire last week. "It was the most refreshing, calming, rejuvenating feeling. Now I rarely pick up my phone, and only limited people have access to me."
While a leather jacket will always be a winter staple, there’s more than one way to wear the beloved material this season. I have desperately been searching for a good pair of leather trousers – not the uber-tight, motorcycle-inspired type, but more like a pair of joggers, except in leather – or pleather. Whatever’s lighter on the wallet, really.
At Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Istanbul last week, Turkish fashion blogger Nil Ninat (pictured above) wore leather trousers – they were loose, but not exceedingly baggy, and cropped at the ankle. She styled them with an oversized sweater in bubblegum pink, plus silver ankle boots. Easy, effortless and eye-catching, her ensemble was everything a fashion-week outfit should be – far from the bizarre, garish style choices that many camera-hungry bloggers make today.
Leather tops have also been making the street-style rounds, particularly those that are of a boxy, camisole style, somewhat like lingerie-inspired tanks, but with more of a rock ’n’ roll edge. With layering also being a key trend for autumn/winter, wearing a leather camisole on top of a T-shirt or turtleneck is a recommended pairing, along with layered chains or chokers to fill in the neckline. This sort of outfit can be completed with a pair of jeans, printed cigarette trousers or culottes. Culottes can look fabulous when crafted from a sleek, leather-like material, along with skirts – not micro-minis, but more thought-out styles. Seek contemporary renditions of pencil skirts, with asymmetrical elements, wraparound styles, accordion pleats, wide leather fringe effects, exposed seams and high waistlines.
If the only leather you’re keen to wear is a good old biker jacket, at least be creative: pick out a Gucci-esque version or take a DIY approach embellish your own with paint, patches and studs.
Where in Hong Kong to get latest skin fix – DNA repair enzyme products
If you have sun damage such as uneven skin tone, dilated pores, wrinkles or sagging skin, do not despair.
UV exposure and free radicals generated by our metabolisms and environmental factors lead to damaged DNA in our skin cells, says dermatologist Carmen Lam.
“Luckily we have naturally occurring DNA repair enzymes to help reverse the damage. However, as we age these enzymes decrease. Laser treatment and chemical peels were once used to correct the damage but today we have DNA repair enzyme ingredients in the form of serum, lotion or cream that you can get over the counter,” says Lam, of Skin Central Dermatology, Aesthetics & Laser.
When DNA-based skincare products and treatments emerged, Hollywood jumped on them. Early proponents included Dr Ronald Moy, a dermatologist and surgeon based in Beverly Hills, who founded the DNA Renewal Skincare range after reading clinical studies into the impact DNA repair for skin cancer had on anti-ageing.
Aromatherapy Associates utilises the Nobel-prize winning research of telomeres, the little “caps” at the end of our DNA that protect chromosomes. Their well-being is crucial in deciding how skin cells age. Its Infinity line targets ageing signs at the cellular level.
If a home care regimen is not enough, its DNA Rejuvenation Facial – available at The Oriental Spa – also includes a microcurrent machine that provides deeper penetration.
Aromatherapy Associates Rose Infinity DNA Rejuvenation Facial. The Oriental Spa at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Queen’s Road Central. HK$2,200-HK$2,500 for 90 minutes.
Ingrid Millet Paris anti-ageing skincare lines revolve around plant cellular extracts. Its ActiveCells10 treatment counts on the patented Vita Nova ingredient to activate skin cells.
Welcome to comfort-party dressing, courtesy of Kate Moss, Victoria Beckham and Sarah Jessica Parker
It’s November, it’s cold and getting dressed in the morning or facing the prospect of venturing out into the dark is against all our hygge instincts. Staying in our pyjamas would be our go-to, if we didn’t have so many *real-life things* to do. But this week, Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss and Sarah Jessica Parker have all demonstrated that you can go out in your comfort clothes, and still look stylish- even when the 'going out' part involves a party. ‘Cheats!’ you cry, ‘it’s not possible!’ Well it is, evidently, if we just invest in the right kinds of comfort clothes.
Last night, Kate Moss had a party to go to, the launch of the swish new Coach House on Regent Street. On a Thursday night in November, we’d have at least a bit of a moan before frantically trying to think of something to wear. But instead of getting all done up and attempting a cocktail dress, she simply threw on some leather shorts and tights (a combo that she’s officially telling us is back) with her snuggly statement jumper, and walked out the door looking great.
Likewise, Victoria Beckham managed to go out for dinner looking polished, when actually wearing pyjamas. These weren’t the same cereal-encrusted flannel pyjamas that we’d like to assume she slobs around the house in, but rather a (clean!) silk pair. As soft and easy as their for-the-sofa counterpart, the set has a subtle print and turquoise piping that smartens up its relaxed silhouette to the point where it feels positively suit-like.
Sarah Jessica Parker, too, was all about a comfy-yet-together look as she went out in Manhattan on Tuesday, wearing a blazer-cardigan hybrid with paneled Tory Sport tracksuit bottoms. With its subtle lapels, SJP’s cardigan looks instantly more polished than the average Nana knit, while the slim cut of the trousers means that they don’t read like trackies, even if they are. Throw in a smart designer bag and some sparkly shoes, and, voila, any slovenly sartorial intentions are completely disguised. All in all ,it was the ideal desk-to-disco look.
So pyjamas, slubby jumpers and tracksuits; all fashion-world ‘offenders’ that you would have previously thought were banned from everyday wear, yet all being sported by three of the most stylish women in the world this week. With a few savvy choices in cut and detail, we reckon that this gives us the green light to now get away with hibernation-snug outfits at any time of the day, and all the way through to March.
The Pumps Kate Middleton Wore The Other Night Were Rather Racy
The Duchess of Cambridge carried out two royal engagements in London on Tuesday. Kate Middleton visited the Natural History Museum in Kensington that afternoon and attended the Place2Be awards ceremony in Mansion House that evening. For the former engagement, she wore a black long-sleeve floral midi dress with a textured velvet print from high-street label LK Bennett. She switched it up for evening with a black midi dress from Preen by Thornton Bregazzi.
But it was her feet that caught our attention. Middleton teamed her Preen ensemble with a pair of Prada’s peep-hole wave pumps in black suede. They are sold out but were last seen at Saks Fifth Avenue for $445.
Now, while admittedly we’re hardly talking a cage sandal, where the British monarchy is concerned, anything involving a cutout might well be considered a trifle racy. However, the overall effect was nothing if not sophisticated. It’s not the first time Middleton has worn Prada pumps. However, she chose more somber navy versions by the Italian label for the opening of a charity shop earlier this year.
Middleton is a patron of the Natural History Museum and was attending a children’s tea party to bid farewell to Dippy the Diplodocus, a dinosaur that has been mounted in the museum’s Hintze Hall since 1905. The duchess is also a patron of the Place2Be charity that aids children’s mental health, and the evening ceremony lauded those who have contributed to the cause.
New York-Based Label Suno Shutters After 8 Years
Celebrated fashion label Suno is closing down, its founders have confirmed. "After eight extraordinary years, we have decided to close this chapter and let this resort collection be our last delivery," Max Osterweis, CEO and half of the label’s founding duo, told Business of Fashion. "We have been humbled by the incredible support that we have had from the moment we launched."
Founded in 2008, Suno has enjoyed considerable success, being named a Council of Fashion Designers of America ("CFDA")/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist in 2011 and 2012; winning the CFDA Swarovski Award for Womenswear in 2013; and being named a finalist for the 2014 LVMH Prize. The brand's collections, which were designed and primarily manufactured in New York by Osterweis and Erin Beaty, drew fans such as Michelle Obama, Christy Turlington, Beyoncé and Taylor Swift.
As noted by British Vogue, the brand raised suspicion as to its vitality when it failed to show a collection during New York Fashion Week during the Spring/Summer 2017 season and also failed replace its vice president of wholesale and merchandising, Mary Song, who left in August. The label is said to have struggled to find investment to move forward.