I just collected my new blouse from the cleaners to find it had been prematurely aged. How was this "dry" cleaned? It looks like I'd chucked in a hot wash with a slug of bleach. It's once perky frilled collar now sags like limp celery. And it's shrunk.
Now, I know there are many excellent professional and careful drycleaners out there, but my luck is not strong in this department. The universe has been telling me to kick my habit for years. My zips come back stiff (why is that?), my buttons cracked or missing, those effing tickets pinned through the silk instead of the label. Once, the elastic waist of a favourite red dress literally melted in their machines.
What are those mysterious machines anyway? And how on earth do you shrink something without wetting it?
"They do wet it," says Anna Gould, an advocate for chemical-free dry cleaning. Who knew? "Dry cleaning is a funny phrase because it doesn't actually mean the clothes stay dry, just that water is not involved." Water swells fibres, which can lead to shrinkage in the drying process. Solvents avoid this problem.
If, like me, you'd imagined the cleaners wafting your designer duds into a westerly breeze or delicately dabbing at them with a baby wipe, you'd better sit down.
"It's not magic. It's just a system," says Gould. "You drop off your clothes, they fix a little ticket to them, then throw them in the machine. Sometimes they might sort them according to fabric or some other categorisation, for example put a whole lot of coats in together, but generally speaking it shouldn't matter because with the solvent the colours shouldn't run. Your garment isn't cleaned on its own.
"The machine soaks the clothes in solvent, then drains the liquid, and dries [the clothes] with heat. Then someone steams out the creases, covers [the garment] in plastic and hangs it up. That's the run-through."
Protest Fashion Takes Many Forms at Britain’s Port Eliot Festival
Whenever the Port Eliot Festival comes around in the last week of July, the sun somehow always shines in this idyllic part of Cornwall, so that revelers of all ages can bounce around in unabashed merriment. Around midsummer each year, Catherine St. Germans allows her ancient and lush estate to become febrile ground for a weekend of ideas and inspiration, spread across literature, art, music, food, and fashion.
That is until this year, when St. Germans was struck with torrential downpours for the most part of the weekend, turning the rolling hills into a sludgy mud-fest—but nobody was going to be deterred by a spot of rain. Out came the Hunter wellies and pack-away rain macs that enabled festival-goers to stand bravely in the rain to listen to the likes of Newsnight’s Emily Maitlis talk about the Trump election trail or take Museum of Witchcraft–hosted night walks along the scenic estuary off the River Tamar. Some even ditched clothing altogether and made like the Blitz Kids–era performance group Neo Naturists to get feral in the wet mud. Come rain or shine, Port Eliot is where minds and bodies can truly roam free.
Up in the walled garden, the Wardrobe Department was once again overseen by Vogue’s own Sarah Mower, who in the spirit of creative defiance sought to mount a fightback from fashion. There’s plenty to rile against—the increasing cuts to the arts in education in the U.K., a toxic atmosphere of conservatism and oppression post-Brexit and -Trump, and an ever uncertain future for when young graduates emerge from university, saddled with debt and fears about the job market. And so, Mower posed a question: Can fashion be utilized as a valid form of protest? Together with a whole host of creative rebels, the answer by the end of the weekend was a resounding yes.
The image of Amy Cartwright, Hannah Monkley, and Amy Towl in full suffragette costume, brandishing a placard that read Same Shit, Different Century, went viral after they were photographed at the Women’s March in London back in January. At Port Eliot, they once again donned their corsets to make a point by protesting in convincing costumes, highlighting that there are still so many gender disparity battles to be won. Ashish also led a glitter resistance of sequined slogans, which ran the gamut from the pointedly political, such as Planned Parenthood and Immigration, to the upbeat in Love Will Win and Don’t Give Up the Daydream. The demonstration here is that sequins need not diminish the message at hand.
Over in the Orangery, a new addition to the festival, was a rotating Art School, where various colleges, illustrators, and designers like Luella Bartley and Giles Deacon hosted drawing lessons to encourage people to take up the arts baton. This a response to an ongoing policy of diminishing art, music, and drama lessons in education curriculums.
Elsewhere, the pink-haired print maverick Zandra Rhodes regaled the crowds with stories of dressing everyone from Diana Ross to Princess Diana, as well as proving her archives have a second life, as an additional reissued collection of her 1970s seminal frocks has just dropped on MatchesFashion.com. Another OG provocateur, Stephen Jones, talking with journalist Alexander Fury, recalled his life through his most memorable hats, such as an English Breakfast–festooned beret and a Ms. Pac-Man helmet created for a 2008 Giles show. Tellingly, both Rhodes and Jones wouldn’t have had such illustrious careers were it not for their outward-looking ambitions. “When we were growing up, we wanted to leave England,” said Jones. “We wanted to be citizens of the world. That’s why Brexit is such a hard biscuit to take.”
From one rebellious generation to another, Mower’s selection of designers to showcase at Port Eliot prove that those emerging from fashion school aren’t content just to follow the norms of setting up their own label or working for a house. Star of the Central Saint Martins M.A. class of 2016, Richard Quinn—whose vibrant floral prints adorned the Wardrobe Department stage—has just set up an open-access print studio in South London to provide students and young designers with affordable screen-printing facilities. “Just f***king do it” is Quinn’s motto—appropriate for this year’s lineup. Conner Ives has already made a splash, dressing Adwoa Aboah for this year’s Met Gala. Ives spoke about the unlikely combination of having a cult label on his hands while still completing his fashion degree. Molly Goddard and Rottingdean Bazaar also highlighted the joys of small-scale operation and independent thought. “I wouldn’t know what to do with an unlimited budget,” said Goddard, whose dresses of inexpensive tulle began as a necessary cost-saving exercise. “I think it would be awful if I had all that money. I like having limits and boundaries.” James Theseus Buck and Luke Brooks, who celebrate the beauty of found objects with their project Rottingdean Bazaar, echoed similar thoughts. “When you have less, you have to work harder to make it more beautiful,” said Buck. This sentiment behind an alternative way of working in the industry elicited cheers from the fashion-skeptic, lit-fest audience. “There was globalization 10, 15 years ago, and everyone hoped and could quickly launch themselves and be picked up by buyers all over the world,” said Mower. “But that has really trailed off in the past few years. Designers are being hired and fired at a greater rate. Young people are regrouping and making statements for themselves.”
Perhaps the talk that really cemented this year’s protest theme was a Dress to Protest extravaganza, copresented by Mower and David Serlin, a professor of communications and science studies at the University of California, San Diego. Together they made the point that visual symbols and slogans, along with clothing, have the power to communicate issues with immediacy and potency. Outfits from Vivienne Westwood and Katharine Hamnett, who is reviving her slogan tees with a to-the-point Cancel Brexit message for 2017, were featured alongside young fashion graduates who have been vocal with their designs from the onset. Menswear designer Daniel Fletcher, for instance, staged a guerrilla demonstration at London Fashion Week during the EU referendum with tracksuits emblazoned with the word Stay. “I think it’s important for young people to be heard and say, We’re not prepared to be ignored or accept what is happening,” said Fletcher.
Even when an outfit isn’t ostensibly capital-F Fashion, cloth is still being used to grab political headlines. Most recently, women dressed up as Margaret Atwood’s red-robed handmaids and descended on Capitol Hill to protest the Republican health-care bill. Their symbolic ensembles were re-created by award-winning costume designer Sandy Powell and Jones at Port Eliot to startling effect.
The more hard-core literary types might be sniffy about the Wardrobe Department’s glitter-faced, flower-strewn presence at Port Eliot, but this year, there was no denying that the message behind the floral prints, slogan tees, and art classes was one with worthy heft. “I’m so inspired by this young generation of creatives,” said Mower in the closing moments of the festival, when the sun did indeed decide to come out. “Just keep doing what you do!”
Kim Kardashian Slapped with Infringement Lawsuit Over "KKW" Trademark
On the same day as Kylie Jenner was sued for allegedly copying the artwork of London-based artist Sara Pope, her sister Kim Kardashian was slapped with a lawsuit by Kirsten Kjaer Weis, a Danish makeup artist, who alleges that Kardashian is infringing her brand by way of Kardashian's newly-launched beauty company, which bears the “KKW” trademark.
According to Weis’s lawsuit, which was filed in the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of Illinois, she has made use of her federally registered “KW” trademark since September 2010 on cosmetics and that Kim K is infringing that mark with her KKW cosmetics line.
Weis alleges in her suit that Kardashian’s use of the KKW logo is causing confusion amongst customers (the central issue for trademark infringement suits), and that such use was a "knowing, willing, and deliberate" choice made by Kardashian, whose KKW brand is a “direct competitor” of Weis’s line.
A spokesman for Weis said in a statement: "This lawsuit is about protecting our reputation and our business. We have worked hard over many years to establish our brand identity and our unique market position.”
On the other hand, a representative for Kardashian said, "There is no merit to this lawsuit. Before launching, Kim received approval for KKW, KKW BEAUTY, and KKW FRAGRANCE from the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. When Ms. Weis asked for a re-examination, the USPTO again approved the brand names for Kim's company a second time. Kim has done everything by the book.”
While it is rare that we side with the Kardashian/Jenners on copying claims, in the case at hand, it appears that Weis' allegations seem extremely tenuous at best (it is hard to believe that consumers believe that Kardashian and Weis's products are in some way affiliated). Nonetheless, she has asked the court to block Kardashian from using the “KW” logo, and is also asking that the court force Kardashian to destroy all of the infringing goods and pay monetary damages including lost profits and attorneys’ fees.
the story behind Cara Delevingne's new red carpet look
For years, we became used to seeing Cara Delevingne cast in the guise imagined for her by the latest designer she was working with; a sleek grown-up in a pencil skirt at Burberry one day, a vampish glamazon at Versace the next. But now that she has moved firmly into the realm of acting, Delevingne gets to dictate her own style.
“We were definitely conscious of making sure not to dress her as a model where a stylist can do all these avant-garde things,” says Mariel Haenn, one half of styling duo Rob and Mariel, who Delevingne has been working with for the past couple of years as her acting career has taken off. “We are still able to do that in a way, but we need to show her movie star side. Anything floral or flirty just isn’t who she is so we wouldn’t put her in anything like. that. Her personality and style are at the forefront”
Delevingne is currently on a whirlwind world tour promoting her latest film, Valerian, and it’s proved the perfect showcase for the “androgynous, cutting-edge” look which Haenn has helped her to hone. Yesterday, we saw Delevingne rock a checked Alexander Wang suit with played with proportion via an oversized blazer and drainpipe trousers; later, she wore a custom-made Burberry suit for the film’s London premiere.
“As a nod to Cara's home town, it was only appropriate that she wear a British designer,” says Haenn. She defines the feeling which they are searching for in every look as “more sexy tomboy rather than just going purely masculine."Although each one has “a masculine touch to it”, it comes with an extra element of edge or detail. Last night, that came in the form of the crystal capelet which was layered over the tuxedo jacket while a Mugler suit worn in New York last week “was a bright velvet so the colour really popped.”
Valerian’s sci-fi themes and Delevingne’s relatively new super-short haircut have given Rob and Mariel a lot to experiment with lately. “Her shaved head actually works with a lot more than we expected but there’s a definite tone and feeling”.
At the first premiere in LA last week, Delevingne eschewed tailoring, opting instead for an architectural halterneck Iris van Herpen dress crafted from sinuous metallic threads, it was a statement-making moment, especially combined with the silver marcel-waved hair created by hair stylist, Mara Roszak. “It’s not every red carpet that you can wear something like that!” Haenn observes, adding that the hair was carefully chosen to compliment rather than compete with the dress.
We’re accustomed to see Delevingne wearing the likes of Burberry and Chanel- both labels she has modelled for in the past- but Haenn is also mindful to include unexpected names in the mix (Dion Lee and Mugler are a couple she’s worn this week). “We don’t want to limit her so we look at everyone’s collection for the season and what their inspiration and theme was, so there are the usual suspects which we lean towards because of who she is, but we’re always looking to push outside that boundary too.”
While the former supermodel might have been quoted today as saying she doesn’t care about how she looks, Haenn says she definitely plays a vital role in choosing the outfits she’ll be photographed in. “She’s great at trusting and trying things on, but she has an opinion too.”
It may still only be July, but fall is right around the corner and it is almost time to start breaking out those sweaters, scarves and boots and stocking up on fall fashion items.
When a new season comes around, fashion experts have already predicted what the hottest trends will be. Some can be the same as last year, but there are always a few that are completely different.
These trends are able to be predicted by what major designers like Prada, Victoria Beckham, Calvin Klein and others present in their spring fashion shows.
Fashion experts are usually spot on, so here is a comprehensive guide to some trends to look out for this fall.
Basics are back, but do not be afraid to experiment with wild prints starting this fall.
A classic white tee is cute, comfy and can truly be dressed up or down. Pair a solid tee with statement jewelry that catches the eye. Add a bold lipstick or eyeshadow to truly make the outfit pop.
According to Vogue and W magazine, prints will also be just as in this season as the basics.
Some prints that you’ll be seeing around a lot this fall are checkered, plaids and animal prints. This look will for sure be a success this season in medium to long outerwear jackets according to Stylecaster.
The type of plaid that fashion designers are going for gives off a more 70s vibe, including browns with oranges, yellows and blues rather than purples, pinks and dark blues.
Velvet will be a popular fabric this fall. It was seen on nearly all the runways including those of Dior, Jason Wu and many more.
A dark-colored velvet dress will be perfect for any occasion this fall — such as weddings, Thanksgiving dinner, date nights or practically anywhere since it can be dressed up or down.
One trend that I think everyone can get behind is the crazy cozy trend for this fall, meaning oversized everything. This means big cocoon coats, oversized chunky sweaters, baggy track pants, etc.
I am particularly glad this trend is being more accepted because wearing tight clothes all day long isn’t fun for anyone. I would much rather have a big shirt on so I can be as comfortable while also looking cute and put together.
Along with the oversized clothes, oversized purses and bags will be in as well according to Nylon magazine. Top brands such as Gucci and Michael Kors featured huge bags on their runways this past spring.
I'm talking ones that you can practically fit your entire life into, or can even double as a weekender bag.
And last, the go-to color of the season will be red, similar to the past spring's color which was pink.
All over red was the go to monochromatic look for the runways. Sleek red coats at Givenchy and statement over-the-knee boots by Fendi were big hits.
Whether you are out shopping for back-to-school clothes, work clothes or just for some new outfits, keep these top trends in mind to be a trendsetter before everyone else jumps onboard.
Check back next week to find out which men's fashion styles will be popular this fall.
We are seeing a growing trend of women dressing more conservatively. More women are dressing to be noticed for style and fashion rather than in a manner that might be considered overtly sexy. Styles on the “modest” continuum range from apparel that offers fuller coverage for religious reasons to pieces that offer less coverage but are artistic, interesting and fashion-forward.
I spoke with Sonia Trehan, cofounder of RUH Collective, a mainstream modest fashion company that launched in June 2016. The founders set out to create a modern brand that would appeal to a thoughtful, fashion-forward woman, and Trehan admitted that the company had an interesting start. She had studied religion at Columbia University, specializing in Islam, and met her cofounder, Soni Ruh, the brand’s fashion designer, after graduation. While at Columbia, Trehan had learned that many Muslim women use fashion to express their identity and break down stereotypes, and she and Ruh wanted to create a brand that was modern, fresh and mainstream rather than focused on religion in the same way that many other modest brands were. The RUH Collective website now offers carefully curated, sustainably made items such as palazzo pants, jumpsuits, joggers, maxi dresses, kimonos, tops and skirts.
When RUH Collective launched, Trehan anticipated that 70% to 80% of its customers would come from the Muslim community, as the company’s clothes, being long and loose, are technically geared to Muslim women. However, she was surprised to learn that non-Muslim professionals ages 20–35 not only accounted for approximately half of the brand’s sales, but were also some of the brand’s biggest champions.
When Trehan discovered that sales were being generated from this unexpected customer base, she reached out to a few customers and asked if they would mind speaking to her, so she could learn more about their preferences and choices. Some of the young professionals she spoke with told her that they felt comfortable in long, beautiful, interesting clothes and that they felt they did not have to be obvious about being sexy. Some customers who were more artistic and creative said they enjoyed dressing in a way that evoked different cultures. One said that she enjoyed wearing more subtle styles as opposed to being “the woman in the miniskirt.”
Trehan added that some customers expressed joy when they learned about the company’s sustainability initiatives—where the company makes its clothes, the factories it uses and the ethical processes it adheres to. She noted that RUH Collective’s core customer is a thoughtful person who is interested in how these clothes make her feel and how they feel on the skin.
Trehan was also surprised to learn from some of RUH Collective’s Muslim customers that they felt conflicted and somewhat suspicious about the burgeoning modest fashion market. Due to recent hype about the industry, these customers were not sure which brands they could trust, and some felt as though retailers were simply targeting them as a group to make money off of them. Trehan said that this was critical in really understanding the company’s core customer and how she was feeling and identifying with who she was. At the end of the day, we all want the same things, Trehan noted, and our clothes should be inspiring and aspirational and beautiful, no matter what styles we choose.
‘The vending machine trunks only got one outing’ Jonathan Freedland
Perhaps the very last time I gave even the most fleeting thought to beachwear was exactly 10 years ago, during a family summer holiday to France. We weren’t on the beach but in a municipal pool, for an afternoon of splashing around with my two kids, then aged six and three.
We’d not been there long when I could hear my wife, Sarah, remonstrating with a lifeguard in Spanish. Which was odd – because we were in France – but not wholly unexpected. In moments of stress or confrontation involving non-English speakers, when only complete fluency will do, Sarah tends to revert to her excellent Spanish rather than her slightly less accomplished French. That the lifeguard did not speak a word of Spanish was scarcely relevant.
The issue, it turned out, was with my son’s swimming trunks. They were too long. The rule of the pool was that they be short, Speedo-style budgie-smugglers rather than knee-length shorts. I approached, but that only escalated matters. The guard pointed at my billowing shorts and said I had to leave the pool too. I can’t be sure, but I think he may have blown his whistle.
The two of us were directed to a vending machine that, incredibly, sold trunks-in-a-box. Two pairs cost me a fair few euros but also some dignity, once the two of us emerged in the mandated briefs. My son looked fine, but I was a pointed reminder of why Daniel Craig caused a global sensation in that scene from Casino Royale: it’s a look mere mortals, whose stomachs are less washboard than laundry bag, struggle to pull off. The vending machine trunks only ever got that one outing.
‘Painted toenails are mandatory’ Arwa Mahdawi
I used to think “beach fashion” was an oxymoron. Who looks stylish at the beach? You can look hot, sure – literally and figuratively – but you can’t look cool. As I grew older and sartorially wiser, however, I learned that beauty and the beach are, indeed, compatible, and have developed a signature seaside style.
One of my favourite things to wear at the beach is sand. Or, as I like to call it, “nature’s glitter”. I’ve found that sunscreen, liberally and lazily applied, makes a great base for sand. And the overall result lends texture and an exfoliating edge to every outfit.
Another of my tried-and-tested beachwear trends is fun tan-tattoos. If you cycle through a variety of different strappy tops you can achieve an interesting amalgamation of tan lines. It’s sort of like body art, via the medium of melanin.
I also enjoy wearing jean shorts to the beach. The great thing about jeans shorts is that they’re basically like jeans but shorter. Importantly, they allow your legs to breathe. Most of the year my legs are stuck in skinny jeans so this is the rare moment they’re able to get out in the world and I find it very freeing.
I tend to flip-flop about the right footwear but painted toenails are mandatory. If you go to the beach and don’t Instagram your ocean-facing feet then did you really go to the beach?
In general, my beachwear mantra is not-hot-not-bothered. The only thing worse than people who look like they’ve made too much of an effort for the seaside are people who turn up to the airport in evening wear because they think that will get them an upgrade.
The beauty benefits of roses have been touted for centuries. From the stress relieving properties of its aroma to the healing oil extracted from the rosehip, plenty of claims have been made about the magic this flower can work.
Should we buy into the hype? Sometimes. But only after careful research on a per product basis and with great caution even then. While, for example, rosehip oil can help even out skin tone and fade scars, it’s no real match for high-tech retinols. And the scent can make it an irritant for some very sensitive skins.
But if you like a more natural, fragrant approach to beauty, try these rose-imbued products.
Kypris 1,000 Roses: You might be disappointed to learn that this powerful serum has no fragrance whatsoever, but that’s a bonus for those with sensitive or breakout-prone skin. This formulation is devoid of all the usual irritants, making it a safe bet for most skins. A treatment oil packed with powerful antioxidants like CoQ-10, Kypris 1,000 Roses is especially good for dry, dehydrated, combination or acne-prone faces. All that and it will reduce sun spots, scarring, and other skin discoloration. If you’re looking for a natural alternative to expensive serums from the usual department store suspects—and if your skin freaks out during your menstrual cycle—this is the product for you.
Neal’s Yard Wild Rose Beauty Balm: A cult beauty product for over 30 years, this is the ultimate multi-tasker. Plenty of people use it as a cleanser, and it does a great job of removing makeup and oil. But frankly, it’s way too gorgeous a product to rinse off your skin so quickly. Wild Rose Beauty Balm makes a soothing final layer on your face when you’re breaking out—even if you have oily skin. The rosehip oil in this is a reparative antioxidant, and smoothing on just a dab of this on top of your serum will reduce redness and ensure skin doesn’t overproduce oil or aggravate acne. It also makes a gorgeous lip balm and will moisturize cuticles without the mess of a gloppy oil.
Melvita Damask Rose Floral Water: Most “rose waters” on the market are little more than plain water with fragrance added.But this organic hydrator is legit and is one of France’s most popular skincare products. With added glycerin, this spritz makes a superb neutralizer to spray over the face after using exfoliating acids. Use it to set or refresh makeup throughout the day, and pop it into your handbag for a quick wake-up mist anytime.
REN Moroccan Rose Otto: Once you get a whiff of this exotic scent originating from Northern Africa, you’ll want every single product in the range. It delivers all the floral impact without a trace of old lady smell. The Moroccan Rose Otto Body Wash ($28) energizes in the morning and calms at night, while the Moroccan Rose Otto Sugar Body Polish ($60) stimulates circulation and leaves skin smooth and soft as a rose petal. Just a few pumps of the Moroccan Rose Otto Ultra-Moisture Body Oil ($65) gives your body a fragrant glow that dries instantly with no greasy residue. If you want to sample the range at a steep discount, Sephora is now offering the REN Moroccan Rose Otto Gift Duo ($49). It includes both the Moroccan Rose Otto Body Wash and Body Lotion, which would cost $74 if purchased separately. Warning: These are gateway products. You’ll soon be buying the entire collection.
Amarté Rose Gold Collection: Dr. Craig Kraffer, who founded the superstar skincare site Dermstore in 1999, continues his visionary work with this Korean-inspired range to address acne, scarring and dehydration. Loaded with reparative antioxidants, argan oil and other botanical ingredients, these luxurious products absorb instantly and are an excellent way to evade the extreme shine and breakouts that frequently plague summer skin. Amarté Wonder Cream ($120) is teeming with peptides to build up collagen and plump the skin without lingering on its surface. This is the daytime moisturizer that won’t make you look like you’re having a meltdown in the heat and humidity. Amarté Hydrolift Cream ($70) includes retinol to help even out skin tone, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and restore suppleness. Amarté Aqua Veil Hydrator ($65) is a light but substantial serum to layer under moisturizer for an ultra-hydrating boost you can use AM or PM, but its faint cucumber scent makes it especially refreshing in the morning. (Full disclosure: None of these products contain any rose whatsoever. But their rose gold packaging will look so good on your bathroom counter that you won’t mind at all.)
Scary Spice Mel B Went Posh in Pink Latex and Lace-Up Sandals
Melanie Brown may be best known as Scary Spice from the Spice Girls, but the star went posh for her latest walk on the red carpet. She joins an ever-growing list of celebrities who are turning “pretty in pink” attire into a red carpet mainstay, such as Zendaya and Gigi Hadid, who both transformed into life-size Barbies for their respective industry events as of late. Mel B, however, skirted the doll-like aesthetic in lieu of a more sultry look.
Brown chose a skin-tight latex dress in bubblegum pink. While the form-fitting number was enough to turn heads on its own, the singer’s shoes were just as eye-catching. In fact, the lace-up sandals had actual eyes as part of the shoe’s elaborate embellishments. The style, from Dsquared2’s spring ’17 runway show, also featured a fuchsia heart and red cross ,which added pops of color to her outfit.
Other stars at the event alongside Brown were co-hosts Simon Cowell, Heidi Klum and Howie Mandel, as well as host Tyra Banks.
From Kim Murray to Jelena Djokovic, these are the stylish spectators to watch during Wimbledon
Wimbledon officially starts today, kicking off two whole weeks of racketing action. Off the court, though, there’s a whole other scene to take in, as the most stylish celebrities and sporty spouses turn up to support their friends and loved ones, whilst giving their best take on the oh so British ‘country casuals’ dress code. Kim Murray’s blow dry is now as synonymous with the game as the strawberries and cream, but there are several other fashion players worth noting in the stands. These are the tennis wives and girlfriends (and husbands and boyfriends) worth taking your eye off the ball for...
Tennis star spouse: Andy Murray
Courtside style signatures: Now expecting her second child with husband Andy, Kim’s Wimbledon 2017 wardrobe will be full of polished maternity-wear. Expect her to pick flared incarnations of her favourite Kate Spade dresses, accessorised with obligatory oversized sunglasses and an Aspinal bag or five.
Tennis star spouse: Roger Federer
Courtside style signatures: Mirka and Roger are now British society favourites after attending Pippa Middleton’s wedding this year, and they regularly sit front row at Paris Fashion Week, too, alongside their friend, Vogue editor Anna Wintour. Mrs Federer’s fashion repertoire in the stands includes Gucci jumpers, Chanel handbags and Cavalli shirt dresses as she hosts friends like David Beckham and Bradley Cooper in the team box.
Tennis star spouse: Caroline Wozniacki
Courtside style signatures: Since Wozniacki and NBA player Lee started dating at the end of last year, they’ve been basking in a (Valencia-filtered) glow posting gorgeous photos for their adoring one million fans to see on social media. Expect Lee to break the dress code in the box and bring some nonchalant, basketball attire into the mix - topped off with those jock trademark, Instagram-ready sunglasses.
Tennis star spouse: Caroline Wozniacki
Courtside style signatures: Since Wozniacki and NBA player Lee started dating at the end of last year, they’ve been basking in a (Valencia-filtered) glow posting gorgeous photos for their adoring one million fans to see on social media. Expect Lee to break the dress code in the box and bring some nonchalant, basketball attire into the mix - topped off with those jock trademark, Instagram-ready sunglasses.
Tennis star spouse: Dominika Cibulkova
Courtside style signatures: Slovakian star Dominika married Michal last year in a stunning ceremony in Bratislava. Navara may have a hipster beard, but he always suits up for Cibulkova’s tennis engagements, so expect him to have a go at the classic straw hat, navy jacket and chinos combination that Wimbledon regulars Bradley Cooper and Jude Law don.
Ester Berdych Satorova
Tennis star spouse: Tomas Berdych
Courtside style signatures: She’s a Czech model signed with the world-famous Wilhelmina agency in Miami, so her spectator style is that classic model-off-duty combination of denim shorts and a white t-shirt. The other staple? A pair of Dior’s mirrored sunglasses.
Who Said Pajamas and Nightgowns Are Only For Sleeping?
The ultimate dream for me is to get up from bed and just go out in my pajamas. “I woke up like this” hair doesn’t cut it if you don’t have the outfit to back it up.
Thanks to runway shows and trendsetters like Gigi Hadid and Selena Gomez, pajamas continue to be a trendy must-have. The styles range from button-downs as seen from Thakoon and Michael Kors; to silky nightgowns from Prabal Gurung.
The key to the pajama trend is comfort while wearing a loose-fitting ensemble. This also gives you room to play around with shoes and accessories. For Gigi, she wore ankle-high boots to complement her pajama bottoms’ wide hem and made it sexier by showing off her red bra. You can also opt to wear pumps like Selena for a sophisticated look. Do the same for your slip dresses.
If you don’t feel like looking too dressed-up, you can always go for the classic sneakers or flat boots for a more casual get-up.
Tempted to try this trend out? We’ve picked out PJ-like pieces for you. (Unless you really want to go out in your just-slept-in clothes, that’s fine too.)
Olivia von Halle Lila Striped Silk-Satin Pajama Set
Inspired by the pajamas worn by Coco Chanel, this Olivia von Halle set has traditional stripes that’ll make you look taller. You can also wear them together or separately.
Victoria’s Secret Ribbed Sleep Cami
A lightweight cami is ideal during warm days. Whether you’re going out for errands or a party, opt for this one from Victoria’s Secret. Pair it with your jeans, shorts, or skirts. Throw on a blazer over it even.
H&M Cotton Nightshirt
No one will know that you’re wearing a nightshirt with this piece. If you’re into wearing oversized shirt dresses to cut time, grab H&M’s Cotton Nightshirt. Pair it with sneakers to complete the laidback feel.
Who is Marta Ortega, the Zara heiress and most influential name in fashion you've never heard of?
Despite being the second richest man in the world, Zara founder Amancio Ortega usually keeps a low profile. But this weekend, the paparazzi caught the Spanish billionaire in a rare ‘display’ of mega-wealth in St Tropez, as boat watchers salivated over his £41.2 million super-yacht.
For the fashion crowd, though, there was something else on board to catch the eye - and, alas, it wasn’t 81 year-old Mr Ortega’s (inevitably Zara-bought) bathing suit. His 33 year-old daughter and the heiress to his empire, Marta Ortega, was also present, and flexing her impeccable taste for resortwear. The appearance has, consequently, given us a rare insight into the woman who is likely behind 20% of the contents in an average British woman’s wardrobe.
Marta acts as a senior creative consultant on all Zara Woman collections, and evidently has first pick of the new clothes before they hit stores. Despite her wealth (her father was worth £65 billion at last count) Ortega actually practices what she preaches, mixing her fully-stocked high street wardrobe with a few choice designer buys.
It’s thought that she’s the one, over her two siblings, who will take over the family business if her apparent-workaholic father ever retires, and she has been working her way up the ranks since beginning her career at the family firm as a shop girl in the Oxford Street store, during her Business Management studies in London.
With a circle of friends that includes Athena Onassis and Spain’s Queen Letizia (who is regularly spotted in Zara), Marta also is an established show-jumper, meaning that she’s a key figure in the Spanish equestrian social set. The entire family is, however, notoriously private, and great efforts have been made to keep her personal relationships out of the papers.
In 2012, Marta married fellow champion rider Sergio Alvarez Moya in a private ceremony on her father’s estate, with an altar designed by sculptor Anish Kapoor - forgoing a bargain Zara look for a Narciso Rodriguez couture gown, just this once. After splitting some months ago, she is now in a relationship with Carlos Torretta, a model agent who establishes deals for Kendall Jenner and Adriana Lima in Europe. Torretta is the son of Roberto Torretta, the Argentinian designer and vice president of ACME , the Association of Fashion Creators of Spain and Carmen Echevarría, a woman who counts Jane Birkin among the clients at her Madrid boutique, meaning that this new relationship would only serve to seal the credentials of the first family of Spanish fashion.
They may be newcomers to Tokyo, but behind the fashion names picking up traction this summer is a wealth of experience combined with honed artisanal skills.
The beauty of origami folds, pleats and twists in clothing is usually something that could only be appreciated by frequenting luxury fashion houses and having deep pockets. But now a new local brand is encapsulating the intrigue of Japanese minimalism and applying it to a range of clothing that is far more accessible than those that have come before it.
UN3D (pronounced “un-threed”) launched in 2016 with both women’s and menswear and has quickly ballooned to hosting a standalone shop in Aoyama. Its raison d’etre is the study of geometry, asymmetry and folds in wearable clothing, with a decidedly unisex and minimalist approach to silhouettes.
Colors are generally muted and are monotone or paired to complement the abstract accessories and statement shoes that match the quirky designs.
The brand’s name alludes to its manifesto of being unconventional, and the designer knows a thing or two about breaking out from the mold: Momoko Ogihara rose to fame as one of the breakout stars of the Shibuya fashion scene, co-opting her unique personal style into a wildly successful 109-mall brand called Murua before stepping down to create UN3D.
People often say that the journey can be better than its destination, but in the case of new brand and boutique M, both are equally fantastic. M is located inside the grounds of the Kanda Myojin Shrine, which was founded in 730 AD. You enter through the shrine’s main gate and traverse multiple architectural wonders before you arrive in the back, where on the right is a stark white building housing the M shop in room 302.
The brand may be new, but the designer is true-blue veteran Michiko Nakayama, who headed the popular brand Muveil for 10 years. Although Nakayama has built a cult following for her unusual collection themes, it comes as a surprise to see that M strips her design ethos down to its core with small editions of simple but luxe clothing. Nakayama explains, “This isn’t about seasonal themes of kitsch, it is about essential quality and the utmost comfort.”
The silhouettes are roomy yet elegant, straddling the lines of city wear and luxe lounge wear. Until the 29th of June, anyone can drop by the chic salon-like store, but afterward, M requests that customers make appointments via the website.
Are Roller Skate Shoes Due For A Comeback?
First, came the light-on sneaker revival. And now, the nostalgia for roller skates has once again caught on. From Charlotte Olympia to Saint Laurent and Veja, designers are playfully mounting sneakers to four wheels, with varying results. But the question is: are these lo-fi retro rollers collectables or wearables?
For her resort ’18 collection, Olympia Dellal released a witty take rife with rainbows, metallic laces and glitter wheels. They are very charming, but don’t look exactly prepared to contend with city streets or replace one’s metrocard.
Ethically-minded French sneaker brand Veja took a crack at the skater shoe too, recently releasing an impressively-engineered sneaker with removable wheels in collaboration with Flaneurz, a clever new snap-on roller skate label that came to market last year. It was started by four friends – Florian Gravier, Arnaud Darut, Walid Nouh and David Brun – with a passion for reviving the category. To date, their retro roller skates are sold on their site as well as a slew of influential boutiques such as Colette, Merci, Citadium, Le Refuge, Alex Eagle Studio and Anthom NYC.
How did the collaboration with Veja come about? And why did you want to collaborate with them?
“The Veja X Flaneurz adventure started in June 2015. Back then, Veja was already one of the first brands that had faith in us. Veja’s concept store “Centre Commercial” commercialized the Pantanal model, a dress shoe, during it’s fall ’13 collection. This model was turned into Flaneurz rollerskates during our crowdfunding campaign on Kickstarter. This joint adventure is now taking an even greater and stronger dimension. We share the same values with Veja.”
How did the idea for Flaneurz come about? And how long did it take to develop your On Wheelz?
“The idea came from the mind of our co-founder, Florian. He has always been a huge fan of roller skating — he was even making his own roller skates when he was younger. He also pays great attention to detail and style, that’s why he thought about fancy sneakers that could be turned into roller skates. It took three years of research and development to come to this product.”
What are your professional backgrounds and how did that bring you to roller skates?
“Florian has a rider past. He is part of SkateXpress, a roller dance crew. He has learned communication and traveled a lot before meeting Arnaud and starting the Flaneurz story. Arnaud has an engineer formation from the Arts et Métiers. He worked in different areas as diverse as connected objects and [the] perfume industry.”
Forget Fast Fashion, A Look at the Ramifications of Fast Media
Digital media is an interesting thing. While most mainstream sites do not actively partake in the facilitation of fake news, a term with a very specific definition (i.e., entirely fabricated stories put forth for political or monetary gain), that is not to say that the information put forth by some of our "trusted" media sources is accurate. If ex-FBI Director James Comey’s recent testimony before the Senate Intelligence Committee is correct, even some of the country’s esteemed publications are not always putting forth entirelyaccurate info – at least not when it comes to classified information.
Kylie v. Kylie
With this in mind, this past winter, a widely-reported story involving Kylie Jenner and Kylie Minogue recently garnered widespread attention in connection with a bitter trademark war involving their names. “Kylie Minogue Wins Legal War with Kylie Jenner Over Name Trademark” read an array of headlines coming from mainstream media outlets after legal counsel for Kylie Jenner, the 19-year old reality television star and budding cosmetics mogul, filed to appeal an unfavorable trademark ruling in connection with her name.
The reporting surrounding the like-named stars’ legal debacle was arguably quite indicative of the state of media and reporting in the digital space.
Some background: The trademark proceeding between Jenner and Minogue got its start in the spring of 2015 when Jenner filed to federally register her full name, as well as variations of it, including “Kylie” and “Kylie Cosmetics,” with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office (“USPTO”) in a number of classes of goods and services. While federal registration is not required to claim rights in a trademark, a registration – if granted – gives its owner the exclusive right to use the mark on a nationwide basis in connection with the goods/services listed in the registration and accordingly, to prevent others from using confusingly similar marks.
Before a mark is registered, any party who believes it may be damaged by registration of the mark may file an opposition, which is exactly what Minogue did. In February 2016, the Australian pop star, who already holds an array of federally registered marks in the U.S., initiated oppositions with the Trademark Trial and Appeals Board (“TTAB”), a USPTO administrative tribunal, arguing that Jenner’s “Kylie” and “Kylie Cosmetics” marks were too similar to her own already-registered marks and were likely to confuse consumers and damage her brand if registered.
The stars were able to settle the matter between themselves, and as a result, the matter was dismissed in January, and Jenner’s trademark applications were left intact.
In the meantime, Jenner was embroiled in an unrelated matter involving an application for one of her “Kylie Jenner” trademarks in the class of goods that covers clothing and accessories. She was, until recently, in the midst of a back-and-forth with the USPTO over the registrability of that mark, which the USPTO ultimately held was too similar to existing marks to be registered.
The USPTO, which examines every application for registration, initially refused to register Jenner’s “Kylie Jenner” mark in December 2015, stating that it is too similar to California-based Mimo Clothing's registration for “Kylee” in the same class of goods. The USPTO also held that the “Kylie Jenner” mark clashed with the “Kendall and Kylie” registration that Jenner also holds.
Jenner’s counsel was able to convince the USPTO that there was not a likelihood of confusion between Jenner’s proposed mark and the “Kendall and Kylie” mark due to her joint ownership of the two marks. However, the USPTO issued a subsequent decision in July 2016, stating that Jenner’s proposed mark is, in fact, likely to cause confusion in connection with Mimo Clothing's 2012 registration for “Kylee.”
Jenner’s legal team filed to appeal the USPTO’s finding, and when the international media moved to quickly cover the news, an interesting narrative emerged. A flurry of reports was led by the Daily Mail, a British publication, which published an article on February 4th, entitled, “Trademark our shared name? You should be so lucky, Kylie Minogue tells Kylie Jenner.”
Formulating a mix of the two separate trademark matters, the article read: “She may have lost her man but devastated pop princess Kylie Minogue has one small consolation – she has hung on to something else close to her heart, her name.” The article continued on to state that in connection with the Minogue vs. Jenner trademark battle, “The Patent Office rejected Ms. Jenner’s application [and] Jenner, who wants the name for her clothing and beauty empire, has lodged an appeal.”
The race to publish what Slate has characterized as one of the most “contentious … trademark dispute[s] in recent memory,” led well-known media outlets, ranging from People and Mashable to Forbes, Fox, and CNBC, to quickly parlay the Daily Mail’s flawed account of the trademark matter into articles of their own.
In addition to entangling the two distinct legal matters, most publications uniformly opted to highlight one of the more scandalous excerpts from Minogue’s February 2016 opposition. In arguing that registration of Jenner’s “confusingly similar” marks would damage her brand, Minogue asserted: “Jenner is a ‘secondary reality television personality,’ who has received criticism from disability rights groups and African-American communities” and is best known for her "photographic exhibitionism and controversial posts” on social media.
Such striking excerpts coupled with bait-y titles turned what could have otherwise been considered a run of the mill trademark matter into widely reported media fodder. W Magazine’s Kyle Munzenrieder, who penned an article on the matter on February 6th, noted in successfully distinguishing the two matters: “The reality is slightly more boring … Once you get beyond the tabloid-baiting drama angle, the details are excruciatingly boring and technical.”
The fashion magazine’s digital news editor appears to have done a bit of research before publishing his article, entitled, “Kylie Minogue and Kylie Jenner's Trademark Dispute Is Almost Over, Thank God.” Most notably, journalists for the BBC reviewed the official documents in connection with the trademark proceedings at issue, all of which are publicly available on USPTO’s website.
Samanthi Dissanayake, the Asia editor of the BBC News website, who oversaw the publication’s report, which was published on February 7th, said: “We found the whole story very interesting but while reading, we quickly realized that the reports seemed rather misleading. We noticed that all of the articles cited a single media report, which did not cite its source.”
As for whether she feared losing the first-on-the-scene advantage by devoting time to doing additional research, including reaching out to the parties involved, she noted: “We didn’t worry that we would be later. We wanted to provide the most accurate account that we could, given all of the publicly available information.”