Is it OK to wear clothes made by Harvey Weinstein’s wife?
Let’s start with this, the artist-v-the-art question, one that now seems necessary to ask on a daily basis, as the Weinstein tsunami continues to sweep through the celebrity world, either destroying all in its wake or else throwing into relief various abuses that were simply shrugged away for too long, depending on your perspective.
Most sensible people, despite what rightwing commentators claim, understand there are various degrees of abuse being alleged, and Dustin Hoffman allegedly saying gross stuff to women in the 80s is obviously not the same as Harvey Weinstein allegedly raping women and threatening to destroy their careers (claims he denies). But, hey, guess what, guys? Both are unacceptable, and it is unnerving when men generally considered good guys are accused of predatory behaviour. So the only surprise about Condé Nast International’s announcement last month that they would no longer work with Terry Richardson, after years and years of rumours, was that it took so long for them to make that announcement.
But Louis CK’s admission on Friday that he had exposed himself to women, after years and years of rumours (you might be spotting a pattern here), was a little different. Yes, many women knew about the rumours, but it was easy to put them out of mind when Louis CK would do his feminist skit about how men are “the worst thing to happen to women”. Well, more fool us, I guess, because all the time we knew – we knew that women were saying Louis CK exposed himself to them. And that Louis CK dismissed those as rumours for so long proves that he assumed that being a powerful white man would protect him from any eventual comeuppance. Welcome to a new dawn, guys.
Like most people, the first vehicle I owned was a Maruti 800, before moving onto a Maruti Esteem, a Honda Civic and a Honda Accord, and then, finally a Mercedes.
The driving pleasure I get in the Mercedes is quite something else. I love driving, and cars, for me, are a matter of comfort. The red Maruti 800 was my own little space, almost like a little cupboard. At that point in time, we did not have mobile phones. Thank God for little mercies! The fashion scene was evolving at that point. One had only heard about designers like Hemant Trivedi or Xerxes Bhathena and a few others who were just coming up.
But the city was fashionable, considering the ‘80s was all about a mix of vibrant colours and retro prints, reminiscent of the fashion of the ‘60s and ‘70s. It was really a mix of the sensibilities of both decades. We were wearing a lot of hipster dresses, belts, and shirt dresses, which are interestingly in fashion today. This also includes the off-shoulder trend and the trend of wearing broad belts.
It was the year of Madonna, with her signature fashion statements combined with Cyndi Lauper. There were a lot of torn denims and crystal-studded, tasselled suedes. There was a massive fashion boom at that time, with great eye makeup and turned-out hair.
The car was my space, where I could carry my food and my water and often work on the move. Since it was easy to drive and manoeuvre, it was quite convenient. It was not so crowded then. While I was driving, I would often eat or write down my notes with the pad on my lap. But that was how Bombay was in those good old days.
This L.A.-Based Fashion Tech Company Lets You Design Your Own Perfect Outfit
Frilly is looking to revolutionize the bespoke clothing industry.
It has happened to all of us. You fall in love with a dress, but you wish it was cut just a little differently, or you find a jacket that is the perfect fit, but would like it so much more in another color. Well, frilly has the answer to this problem. The e-commerce shop (think of it as more of a virtual atelier) allows customers to scroll through different styles, customizing the silhouette.
Sound too good to be true? Co-founders Shang Ding and Jeni Ni say they still hear that all the time, three years after founding the company. “To create a digital space where you can customize every part of your garment from fabric, color, neckline, length (and more) to specific trims and fine details, then see it all happening in real time on your screen, it really shakes people’s minds when we describe it. But, we are making believers out of everyone,” laughs Ni. Once a customer perfects her piece ($50-$707), one artisan makes the garment and handles the order from start-to-finish, and it takes about two to three weeks for the finished product to arrive by mail.
Pret-a-Reporter caught up with Ni at frilly's newly opened showroom on Melrose Place in Los Angeles, where shoppers can browse pieces on the rack and customize with the help of consultants on site.
Why did you want to start this business?
I wanted to create a space where shoppers could come get beautifully constructed garments, to their specifications, without the hassle of having to go to a tailor or seamstress. Coming from my background as a buyer, I would see garments that would almost make the cut but then miss the mark because of a detail that wouldn't work for my customers. I experienced the same thing when shopping for myself; a style would stand out to me but an aspect or two would keep me from wanting to invest in the piece. As we enter a new age of technology, I knew I wanted it to be a convenient and digital experience without sacrificing the quality of the garments and designs.
Makeup on the move: the rise of commuter cosmetics
We all have tricks to shave time off our morning routine, whether it’s skipping breakfast or showering the night before. If you can repurpose a few minutes of public transport ennui to apply your lippy, then hell, why not?
You won’t be the only one. Surveys reveal that as many as 67% of British women do makeup on the move. As more of us are living in, or commuting into, cities, smearing on the slap on public transport is now so popular a time-saver it has forced the beauty industry to develop more portable, compact and easy-to-apply-on-the-move products, according to market research agency Mintel.
“Women are defending their right to apply makeup on-the-go,” says Mintel’s global cosmetics analyst Charlotte Libby, who predicts the arrival of more solid formats, and products that can be applied one-handed or straight from the pack. In 2014, 4% of product launches involved on-the-go application strategies; by 2016, this figure had almost doubled.
With so many of us at the mercy of jerky bus drivers and one sweep of the mascara wand away from temporary blindness, such innovations are a welcome addition to the commuter’s makeup bag.
Sephora’s Fingertip Eyeliner, for example, features a cap you stick on the end of your finger, so the liner feels like an extension of your own hand. Pout Case, the “world’s first beauty phone case”, has a hidden makeup palette that slides down from the back of the handset, and can hold three products. Lipstick Queen’s “lip transformer” lipsticks can be used safely without a mirror because the sheer colour adapts to the pH of your lips, to create a shade that flatters your skintone.
Youthful Albany fashion designer savors success
Meet Taofeek Abijako, designer in motion.
He has his own fashion line, Head of State, featuring vibrantly colored men's street wear with a global mindset. His clothes are on sale at stores in the United States, Canada and Japan.
His spring 2018 collection wowed the sartorially savvy at New York's Fashion Week this past July, described by The New York Times as "a startlingly sophisticated show of street wear inspired by post-colonial African clothing, the kind that might have been worn by the fashion-conscious young Malians featured in the classic studio portraits shot by Malike Sidibe or Seydou Keita in the 1960s."
He's driven. Visionary. Innovative. Ambitious. Successful.
No, that's not a typo. Yes, it means he started creating his clothes — his whole aesthetic, really — while a student at Albany High School, where he graduated just last year. And yes, he realizes how unlikely this all is, how swift and surreal. To use his word of choice: "Insane."
How did it happen? How did he get from there to here? That question prompted a long and lively response on Saturday afternoon, when Abijako, who lives in New York City, hit "pause" on his whirlwind life for an interview at the Tierra Farm Store in Albany's Pine Hills.
He was home for the weekend, staying at his old bedroom in his parents' house, and in the mood to chat. He had just scored a deal with retailers in the United States and Canada — scant months after snaring a similar deal with outlets in Japan (see box for retailers). "Every two months, something happens," he said, shaking his head with amazement.
New race wear fashion for all women
FASCINATORS are going like hotcakes at Lane 3 Fashion, but it's not too late for ladies looking for a last minute buy before Melbourne Cup Day.
The new range of race wear is mostly made up of Australian labels 3rd Love and White Closet.
The store recently stocked up on new labels up to a size 18, in addition to their main range.
Store owner Lisa Cowen said the store aimed to provide outfits for all women.
"My biggest thing is ranging the sizes to be able to cater for everybody," Ms Cowen said
Ms Cowen said 90% of shoppers who venture out of their comfort zone get a good return.
"I encourage everybody to try everything and anything on," she said.
"A lot of people will turn their nose up at something on the hanger but then they try it on and it's the outfit that they walk out the door with."
Ms Cowen said it can be hard to judge the trends in Gladstone.
"You've got the ones who love the out there colours, the spring colours, florals, and a lot of people that just like the Plain Jane colours," she said.
"Each to their own, it's hard to say there's more of one than the other."
The store sources a lot of their labels from Brisbane and also from interstate.
Ms Cowen took over the business, previously known as Divine Avenue, in January this year.
Condé Nast bans Terry Richardson from working with any of its publications
Infamous fashion photographer Terry Richardson has been banned from working with any Condé Nast publications, effective immediately.
Condé Nast International’s executive vice-president James Woolhouse reportedly sent an email about the matter to staff internationally this week.
“I am writing to you on an important matter. Condé Nast would like to no longer work with the photographer Terry Richardson. Any shoots that have been commission(ed) or any shoots that have been completed but not yet published, should be killed and substituted with other material,” the email says, which has been confirmed by a spokesperson for Condé Nast International.
“Please could you confirm that this policy will be actioned in your market effective immediately,” it finishes.
Condé Nast International publishes 143 editions of magazines including Vogue, Vanity Fair and GQ.
According to the UK’s Telegraph, the move comes as various media outlets have published allegations regarding Richardson’s allege sexual misconduct during shoots. Britain’s Sunday Times has gone as far to call Richardson “the Harvey Weinstein of fashion,” as per the LA Times.
According to The Telegraph, allegations over Richardson’s conduct have resurfaced and made headlines in recent days, though no fresh claims have been made.
In recent days, models have turned to social media to share their stories of sexual harassment within the fashion industry under the hash tag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse
Breaking: Wynwood to host second annual Fashion’s Night Out
The bad news: The original Fashion’s Night Out spearheaded by Anna Wintour met its untimely demise in 2013. Dunzo. Kaput.
The good news? The second annual Wynwood Fashion Night Out will be held Nov. 2. #SoBlessed
“We’re thrilled to announce the return of Wynwood’s Fashion Night Out and invite the South Florida community to an evening filled with exceptional street art, retail and dining experiences,” Wynwood BID Vice Chairman Albert Garcia says.
What can revelers expect? More than 40 participating businesses throughout Wynwood will be offering an array of in-store promotions (think giveaways and discounts) and parties (bring on the sips and bites!). Expect some catwalk action as well in the form of a grand finale Fashion Show at Mana Wynwood featuring clothing and accessories from neighboring boutiques.
There’s a feel-good component, too. “Wynwood’s business community is also coming together to collected donated items to support the women and families of Lotus House as part of this year’s annual event,” Garcia says.
Wynwood FNO participating retailers will be collecting donated items for non-profit Lotus House, an organization working to improve the lives of homeless women, youth and children. In fact, Wynwood FNO will launch a month-long drive for Lotus House because… ’tis the season to be giving. Items being collected include: Baby diapers, ladies and children’s underwear, new holiday toys for boy and girls, socks for female adults and children and Dove body soap.
Over 40 stores (whoa!) are participating in the fashion and foodie fun. Aesop, Antidote, BASE, Beaker & Grey, Boho Hunter, Del Toro Shoes, Fireman Derek’s Bake Shop, Illesteva, Lovely Bridal Shop, MVM Miami, Panther Coffee, Shinola, Warby Parker and more are in the mix.
5 reasons why you should never feel guilty about wearing jeans every day
Fashion's love affair with jeans shows no signs of slowing down. From dark wash slim cuts at A.P.C. to high-waist wide-legs at Dior, the latest round of catwalk shows proved that our beloved denim is going nowhere soon. While there are a myriad of new jeans styles that have flooded the market (cropped flare and girlfriend jeans, we're looking at you), it's worth noting that you needn't rush to fall for a pair that lends itself to a 'trend' category. A classic pair that are more smart than sloppy and a flattering cut are a fail-safe.
But along with this revival has come a renewed attitude to how and where we can wear our jeans. I'm a denim advocate. I wear them by day, night and at the weekend and challenge anyone to find me a pair of trousers as versatile as my trusty mid-blue straight-legs. I don't feel bad wearing them all the time- as fashion is suggesting we should- and neither should you.
Here are five reasons why...
Although the perfect pair varies for every woman, denim complete with a comfy waist, a 1-2% elastane stretch (any less than that and they can be a bit unforgiving) and a loose but tapered straight leg that ends just above the ankle are versatile, chic and flattering.
Rigid denim is very au courant and can be just as comfortable if you find a well-fitting pair. If fashion-y jeans, such as a kick-flare, mom or wide leg style aren't your thing, stick to a classic pair. It's more important that you feel and look great in them- which is just as well if you're wearing them to sit at your desk or dash from meeting-to- meeting all day.
Granted there are some occasions jeans aren’t welcome, like to a friend's wedding for example (I asked, she wasn’t keen) or to a job interview where a more formal look is necessary. The majority of the time however, denim can be reworked to suit the occasion. Heading to a pub lunch on a Sunday afternoon? Add a sweatshirt and box-fresh trainers. Going out for drinks after work? Pair your denim with a blazer, statement earrings and a block heel to smarten them up.
Chances are if you’re a real denim aficionado, you’ve invested in a great pair that suit your shape perfectly so what better way than getting your cost-per-wear down by dressing them up and down to suit a plethora of scenarios?
Model Cameron Russell calls out the fashion industry on sexual harassment
Dozens of models are banding together to share anonymous accounts of sexual harassment as the controversy over Harvey Weinstein expands to other industries.
Model and activist Cameron Russell, 30, began sharing stories on her Instagramfeed last week, explaining that she wanted to shine a light on abuse of young, often inexperienced models by seasoned professionals in the business.
“Hearing about #harveyweinstein this week has sparked conversations about how widespread and how familiar his behavior is,” Russell wrote on her Instagram feed and has encouraged correspondents contributing their stories to publicly use the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse “so the industry can see the size and scope of this problem”.
Among dozens of entries, many writers have described how, as young women often with little experience, they were left unguarded and vulnerable to predators, many of them photographers, agents, clients and bookers. One described how she was assaulted by an unnamed photographer when she was 15 years old for the sake of “making the pic look more sensual”.
As the feed has gathered stories, it has received hundreds of “likes”, including some from well-known models. But Russell wrote that the Instagram accounts should not be seen as an exposé “because nothing in these stories should be a revelation for those working in our industry”.
Russell’s call for the fashion industry to reform have been joined by supermodel Christy Turlington Burns. She told WWD that she felt fortunate that she had not been abused, but added: “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry.”
Turlington, who is married to the actor and documentary maker Edward Burns, continued: “The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experienced at some point in our careers.”
The model, who now runs a not-for-profit organization that trains midwives in Guatemala, said that there were many times early in her career when she had flown abroad for an assignment to find herself entrusted to the care of “some creepy playboy type”.
“In hindsight, I fear I may have played the ‘honeypot’ that has been described in the stories about these predators who make other women feel protected. Unknowingly, but still an accomplice of sorts.”
The Weinstein scandal is now placing the fashion industry in the crosshairs.
Weinstein is married to a fashion designer, Georgina Chapman, and was frequently seen in the front row at his wife’s catwalk shows with senior industry executives. The couple have now separated, Chapman has announced.
FASHION: Crafting a look for autumn
SADLY, we are all too familiar with stories of sweatshop labour and youth exploitation in the fashion industry.
So it is heartening to hear another tale – one where fashion is a positive force in people's lives and helps them make a fair living.
York businesswoman Anne McCrickard has been telling those stories for several years now, through her ethical clothing boutique Maude & Tommy, Grape Lane.
If clothes could talk, these garments would keep you captivated.
Take the exquisite and colourful swing coat from Bibi Hanum in Uzbekistan. It is made by craftspeople, mostly women, in the Tashkent, Ferghana Valley and the Navoi Region. The company is a social enterprise, with a mission to provide economic opportunities for women while preserving Uzbekistan’s rich heritage.
Anne explains: "The clothes are designed to incorporate the traditional crafts of Uzbek artisans. Ikat fabrics are made by master craftsmen in the Fergana Valley, whose families have employed these techniques for generations."
These techniques were almost lost forever, adds Anne, because of the imposition of modernisation during the Soviet era.
"In their style and ornamentation, Uzbek clothing reflects centuries of cross-cultural trade along the Silk Road network that crossed Central Asia, particularly from Persia, India and China."
Every garment in the boutique has to fit in with Anne's ethos of slow fashion, the antithesis of today’s throwaway fast fashion, often made in sweatshop conditions.
“I love buying from craftspeople from around the world," says Anne. "For autumn/winter, we have items handmade in York and Yorkshire, alongside pieces from India, Uzbekistan, France, Sweden and Italy.
“Some are new ventures while others keep alive techniques that have been mastered over centuries. You’re not just buying clothes, you’re supporting these people, their children and entire communities."
Another example is the block colour coat by Neeru Kumar. It looks surprisingly modern, but is based on traditional techniques and indigenous materials from India.
And how about this as an antidote to throwaway fashion – a bag made from recycled goods. The company What Daisy Did uses waste materials from various industries to create its range of bags and purses.
Anne says the designs are timeless, to outlive micro trends and seasons, and made by more than 100 artisans in rural India. "The bags are hard wearing and made to last, keeping them out of landfill for as long as possible," she adds.
Chic craft pieces made closer to home also make the cut for autumn/winter at Maude & Tommy.
"Norfolk-based CoridaKnit is known for its hand-felted accessories but the business has taken the latest collection in a new direction," says Anne. "Using a fresh technique known as nuno felting, it involves bonding 70 per cent extra fine merino wool on to a printed silk gauze textile. The effect is a stunningly-detailed lightweight felt with exquisite detail."
Making Fairisle fabulous again is Galashiels-based Eribé, which describes itself as ‘a cottage industry gone global’. The business works with hand-knitters and knitwear designers who are experts in the heritage knitting technique.
Created from natural fibres, including lambswool and merino, the garments are made using knowledge handed down from one generation to the next. There’s a mix of machine-knits and hand-framed styles, with almost 90 per cent of products made in Scotland, says Anne.
Cameron Russell and Edie Campbell call out photographers who sexually assault fashion models
American model Cameron Russell has spent the last 18 hours glued to her mobile phone, reading and re-posting stories on her Instagram account from fellow fashion models who say they have suffered at the hands of photographers, casting directors, designers and other powerful men within the fashion industry.
Russell, who has walked for Prada, Louis Vuitton, Victoria's Secret and many more, has respected the privacy of every victim by blocking out names, however the accusations submitted to her include tales of alleged manipulation, harassment and sexual assault, with many saying that the abuse happened when they were just 15 or 16 years-old.
The first post that Russell shared was a friend’s story, who detailed how a male photographer had assaulted her on a test shoot at the age of 15. “A brave model (and friend) reached out to me with her story today,” Russell wrote, starting the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse.
“She has asked to remain anonymous but asked that I share her words here because the photographer still works in the industry. She wants to encourage other women to speak up. We need a way to begin breaking the silence while remaining protected. We are not talking about one, five, or even twenty men. We are talking about a culture of exploitation and it must stop.”
All about Erdem's HM collaboration, according to Erdem Moralioglu
Last year, on a bitterly cold spring day in London, Erdem Moralioglu took guests through his resort collection in his Mayfair store. I’d flown in from much warmer Sydney, so Moralioglu pulled out a leopard-print fur coat and joked to me that it would be the perfect antidote to the London weather. I relegated that coat to the dream category of my mental shopping list, concocting instead a more fabulous existence for it, to be worn traipsing around one’s French chateau or one’s Scottish moor property.
But here at the H&M Australia showroom, I sight an Erdem x H&M leopard-print faux-fur coat that gave me the same frisson of fashion what-ifs with its design – and its price. It’s to be expected from the Scandinavian retailer, but seeing the quality and workmanship in person never ceases to surprise and delight.
“There’s something about this collaboration that feels looser than my catwalk collections, and also very democratic,” says Moralioglu, who tells Vogue how he drew on his past creations, re-working shapes and silhouettes, such as a pleated dress from a 2005 collection, rather than on a singular narrative, as he is wont to do. “With each of our collaborations, we say to the designers that we want the true essence of their brand,” says H&M’s Ann-Sofie Johansson, the woman tasked with producing the samples for the designers, who “often can’t believe what we’ve managed to achieve”. After Balmain and Kenzo, “the timing felt right for a collaboration with a British designer well known for his romantic and feminine style”, she adds. “I feel we need more beauty in the world these days.”
The Canadian-born, London-based designer also looked to his own childhood: “I was thinking about pieces that my mother wore, like when she would borrow my father’s coat to drive us to school.” Knits reference a Norwegian-style jumper that he had worn in school and styles seen in Twin Peaks, which he loved to watch as a teenager.
Of working with him, Johansson points to his warmth and friendliness. “He loves people and has such a great understanding of who wears his clothes – it’s like they are his friends,” she says. “He’s also very specific and has an eye for perfection... it was exciting for us to work with someone who cared so much about every single detail.” The main label’s delicacy and whiffs of romanticism are captured in the H&M collaboration, with a mock crocodile handbag decorated with crystal patterns, as if brooches had been attached to a vintage handbag; a white lace blouse collared with pleats and interlaced black ribbon; and a tweed skirt with the edges artfully frayed, giving the piece a sense of undone modernity.
“We always like to think big at H&M and to give our customers something special that’s completely unexpected,” says Johansson. “For us, it is always important to choose the best fabric for each garment, offering the best value for money.”
A first for Moralioglu is menswear, which allowed him to design for himself but to also maintain a “dialogue between the two worlds” between menswear and womenswear. “I remember we were fitting the men’s jacket, and we tried it on the female model to see how she looked,” he recalls. “It was a real moment for us, because she looked so wonderful and relevant. It led to us creating a double-breasted jacket for the women’s collection, which is now my favourite in the whole collections.”
The combination of his own history and that of his brand made the collaboration a unique experience. “Because so much of the past 12 years is woven into the collection, it felt so good to have the opportunity to look at the things I’ve done in the past and redevelop them – it was so exciting. The whole project has felt so personal.”
The fashion in 1982’s “Blade Runner” still looks futuristic in 2017. Its sequel looks cliché
In the 35 years since the original Blade Runner movie came out, fashion designers have looked to its unusual mashup of retro and futurism as a regular source of inspiration. What it got right was the way it took familiar references—1940s Hollywood glamour, early 1980s punk, film noir tropes—and threw them in a dystopian blender. Each character’s wardrobe signaled a type you understood, dislocated just enough to make it something strange and new.
“I was mesmerized by the mix of what was then futuristic with what was already retro,” designer Jeremy Scott told CNN. “That is what makes Blade Runner the gold standard (among) sci-fi dystopian worlds, as it’s believable. Because we do not live in a world where everything is from today … We live in a chaotic world of various decades of architecture, automotive design and fashion, combining and colliding all (in) that same moment.”
Blade Runner offered a vision of the future nobody had articulated before, and its influence is easy to see in the work of numerous designers. Among the high-profile examples are Alexander McQueen’s 1998 collection for Givenchy, which played off the remixed 1940s look of Rachael, the near-human “replicant” android who is the movie’s female lead. There was the overt reference to the punkish hair and makeup of “basic pleasure model” replicant Pris in Jean Paul Gaultier’s 2008 couture show. This year, Raf Simons showed a men’s collection on the streets of Chinatown in New York that reproduced the dark, rainy atmosphere of Blade Runner down to the umbrellas, while Bottega Veneta’s runway stylist admitted to the Financial Times (paywall) that she was inspired by Rachael’s look.
Meghan Markle's house shoes are for wearing everywhere and you too can own them
If you want to do cosy style like a soon-to-be royal, then Meghan Markle’s laid-back slippers need to be on your shopping list.
Taking cues from pyjama dressing, Markle is a firm favourite of taking her house shoes out of the house, wearing a pair of Birdies slippers more than once out and about.
Wearing the brand’s black, loafer-style offering named The Blackbird (and opting for the shearling-free interior), Markle has been spotted everywhere from the flower market to behind-the-scenes at Suits in the shoe.
And even though they’re meant for the indoors, Markle is on the same page with getting value for money, making sure she gets every cent of value from the USD$140 slippers.
Not sure how to style slippers? Take cues from this (almost) princess and pair with jean shorts and a button up white shirt. Simple.