15 Books To Add To Your Encyclopedia Of Fashion
Everybody knows how fun it is to wear clothes. But to know about them — and to be able to hold your own in a Devil Wears Prada-like situation — is a whole other ball game. That's why we've compiled a gift guide for those who prefer to talk the talk and walk the walk.
Not only will the books ahead be your go-to for beautiful pictures, illustrative histories, and, let's face it, stuff that just looks pretty on the shelf, but they'll also serve as their own sort of style almanacs that'll get you up-to-speed on all of the industry's happenings. What led to Raf Simons taking over at Calvin Klein? There's a book for that. Who is Mario Testino, and what is this towel series Ashley Graham posed for? We've got you covered. And why is Dolce & Gabbana calling millennials "the new renaissance"? Yup, there's one for that, too.
If your attention span doesn't allow for hundreds of pages on the history of Dior or French haute couture, that's okay too. Instead, consider this your destination for what to buy your difficult fashion friend who's impossible to shop for. 'Tis the season for enriching our closets and our mind — to filling our pockets with cash from our grandparents and distant relatives who think we're fashion designers, our closet with random gifts from our S.O.'s we forgot we wanted — but they remembered — and end tables with beautiful, fashionable tomes that'll last a lifetime.
7 FASHION TRENDS THAT WILL BE BIG IN 2018
How best to sum up the Spring / Summer '18 season? The easiest way would be by not attempting to. This was a catwalk season that defied any neat explanations, in much the same way the world does at the moment. The fashion world responded to global turbulence the way it knows how, by wilfully celebrating beauty and the joy of life.
What that means depends on who you ask. In one corner of the fashion world, there was an explosion of unabashed glamour and glitter. In another, an overwhelming wave of humour and nostalgia. And on the opposite end of the spectrum, a sense of punk rock rebellion. And running throughout it all, a stand for uplift and individuality in uncertain times.But, as always, we will attempt to distill this season's plethora of themes and sub-themes into digestible chunks for the fashion-hungry, so that you can be sure to enjoy the best that 2018's designer offering has in store.
Kim Kardashian West ranks her sisters from best to worst dressed
If faced between drinking a sardine smoothie, eating cow tongue or worse, answering personal questions about your famous family, which would you choose? For one Kim Kardashian West, it was the latter .
During an appearance on The Late Late Show with James Corden’s segment ‘Fill Your Guts or Spill Your Guts’, whereby guests are asked to choose between eating something gross or answering a personal question, Kardashian West opted to answer a question about her sisters’ sense of style over tasting something from the revolting menu.
Asked by Corden to rank her sisters from most stylish to least stylish, Kardashian West was quick to answer, opting for eldest Jenner, Kendall, as the sister with most impressive taste.
“Best dressed, I would say…Kendall. Second, I’d go for Kris Jenner. Third, Kourtney — no, no, no. Yeah, Kourtney. No, okay. The one before could be Kylie, then Kourtney.”
Deciding eventually on Kylie over Kourtney for third and fourth place, it left Kardashian West with only one option.
“And then Khloé. She’s going to kill me, I’m so sorry.”
It isn’t the first time Kardashian West has revealed she’s not such a fan of her sister's sartorial choices. The Good American-designer, Khloé, has faced her sisters being vocal in the past about their desire for her to change up her style in a number of Keeping up with the Kardashians episodes.
Most recently, Kardashian West compared Khloé to herself (pre Kanye West, we’re guessing), confirming she’s not a fan of Khloé’s trend-based look, saying: “I always cringe when I look at Khloé in outfits. You know what, she’s so trendy, and I used to be that way but she is like that on steroids.”
However, forgoing a question about Kylie and Khloé’s rumoured pregnancies to drink a sardine smoothie, Kardashian West proved that when it comes to family loyalty, her allegiances might not extend to fashion, but do cover pregnancy rumours. Spitting out the smoothie seconds later, Kardashian West might not have a taste for fishy drinks, but she sure doesn’t like fishy rumours either.
We’ll stick with style rankings, thank you very much.
Shockingly, the USA Isn’t the Country Most Obsessed with Millennial Pink
If you thought Americans were the ones most obsessed with millennial pink, you should think again.
According to new research released by retailer Long Tall Sally in support of their #CURATDby campaign, the most popularly used fashion trends on Instagram are surprising once they're broken down.
The results? Millennial pink and logo tees are just two of the top fashion trends that flooded everyone's feeds around the world this year, and check blazers and berets were all the rage in Copenhagen and Tokyo respectively.
In addition, the brand found that outerwear was huge in Italy, Sweden, the U.S.A., and Denmark, with all of the countries having coats and jackets as their most popular items this year. In Italy belted coats topped the list, while in Stockholm, fashion influencers like @carolineblomst rocked bright bold puffer coats. On the east coast of the U.S., Americans swore by colorful faux fur coats.
Is it OK to wear clothes made by Harvey Weinstein’s wife?
Let’s start with this, the artist-v-the-art question, one that now seems necessary to ask on a daily basis, as the Weinstein tsunami continues to sweep through the celebrity world, either destroying all in its wake or else throwing into relief various abuses that were simply shrugged away for too long, depending on your perspective.
Most sensible people, despite what rightwing commentators claim, understand there are various degrees of abuse being alleged, and Dustin Hoffman allegedly saying gross stuff to women in the 80s is obviously not the same as Harvey Weinstein allegedly raping women and threatening to destroy their careers (claims he denies). But, hey, guess what, guys? Both are unacceptable, and it is unnerving when men generally considered good guys are accused of predatory behaviour. So the only surprise about Condé Nast International’s announcement last month that they would no longer work with Terry Richardson, after years and years of rumours, was that it took so long for them to make that announcement.
But Louis CK’s admission on Friday that he had exposed himself to women, after years and years of rumours (you might be spotting a pattern here), was a little different. Yes, many women knew about the rumours, but it was easy to put them out of mind when Louis CK would do his feminist skit about how men are “the worst thing to happen to women”. Well, more fool us, I guess, because all the time we knew – we knew that women were saying Louis CK exposed himself to them. And that Louis CK dismissed those as rumours for so long proves that he assumed that being a powerful white man would protect him from any eventual comeuppance. Welcome to a new dawn, guys.
Like most people, the first vehicle I owned was a Maruti 800, before moving onto a Maruti Esteem, a Honda Civic and a Honda Accord, and then, finally a Mercedes.
The driving pleasure I get in the Mercedes is quite something else. I love driving, and cars, for me, are a matter of comfort. The red Maruti 800 was my own little space, almost like a little cupboard. At that point in time, we did not have mobile phones. Thank God for little mercies! The fashion scene was evolving at that point. One had only heard about designers like Hemant Trivedi or Xerxes Bhathena and a few others who were just coming up.
But the city was fashionable, considering the ‘80s was all about a mix of vibrant colours and retro prints, reminiscent of the fashion of the ‘60s and ‘70s. It was really a mix of the sensibilities of both decades. We were wearing a lot of hipster dresses, belts, and shirt dresses, which are interestingly in fashion today. This also includes the off-shoulder trend and the trend of wearing broad belts.
It was the year of Madonna, with her signature fashion statements combined with Cyndi Lauper. There were a lot of torn denims and crystal-studded, tasselled suedes. There was a massive fashion boom at that time, with great eye makeup and turned-out hair.
The car was my space, where I could carry my food and my water and often work on the move. Since it was easy to drive and manoeuvre, it was quite convenient. It was not so crowded then. While I was driving, I would often eat or write down my notes with the pad on my lap. But that was how Bombay was in those good old days.
This L.A.-Based Fashion Tech Company Lets You Design Your Own Perfect Outfit
Frilly is looking to revolutionize the bespoke clothing industry.
It has happened to all of us. You fall in love with a dress, but you wish it was cut just a little differently, or you find a jacket that is the perfect fit, but would like it so much more in another color. Well, frilly has the answer to this problem. The e-commerce shop (think of it as more of a virtual atelier) allows customers to scroll through different styles, customizing the silhouette.
Sound too good to be true? Co-founders Shang Ding and Jeni Ni say they still hear that all the time, three years after founding the company. “To create a digital space where you can customize every part of your garment from fabric, color, neckline, length (and more) to specific trims and fine details, then see it all happening in real time on your screen, it really shakes people’s minds when we describe it. But, we are making believers out of everyone,” laughs Ni. Once a customer perfects her piece ($50-$707), one artisan makes the garment and handles the order from start-to-finish, and it takes about two to three weeks for the finished product to arrive by mail.
Pret-a-Reporter caught up with Ni at frilly's newly opened showroom on Melrose Place in Los Angeles, where shoppers can browse pieces on the rack and customize with the help of consultants on site.
Why did you want to start this business?
I wanted to create a space where shoppers could come get beautifully constructed garments, to their specifications, without the hassle of having to go to a tailor or seamstress. Coming from my background as a buyer, I would see garments that would almost make the cut but then miss the mark because of a detail that wouldn't work for my customers. I experienced the same thing when shopping for myself; a style would stand out to me but an aspect or two would keep me from wanting to invest in the piece. As we enter a new age of technology, I knew I wanted it to be a convenient and digital experience without sacrificing the quality of the garments and designs.
Makeup on the move: the rise of commuter cosmetics
We all have tricks to shave time off our morning routine, whether it’s skipping breakfast or showering the night before. If you can repurpose a few minutes of public transport ennui to apply your lippy, then hell, why not?
You won’t be the only one. Surveys reveal that as many as 67% of British women do makeup on the move. As more of us are living in, or commuting into, cities, smearing on the slap on public transport is now so popular a time-saver it has forced the beauty industry to develop more portable, compact and easy-to-apply-on-the-move products, according to market research agency Mintel.
“Women are defending their right to apply makeup on-the-go,” says Mintel’s global cosmetics analyst Charlotte Libby, who predicts the arrival of more solid formats, and products that can be applied one-handed or straight from the pack. In 2014, 4% of product launches involved on-the-go application strategies; by 2016, this figure had almost doubled.
With so many of us at the mercy of jerky bus drivers and one sweep of the mascara wand away from temporary blindness, such innovations are a welcome addition to the commuter’s makeup bag.
Sephora’s Fingertip Eyeliner, for example, features a cap you stick on the end of your finger, so the liner feels like an extension of your own hand. Pout Case, the “world’s first beauty phone case”, has a hidden makeup palette that slides down from the back of the handset, and can hold three products. Lipstick Queen’s “lip transformer” lipsticks can be used safely without a mirror because the sheer colour adapts to the pH of your lips, to create a shade that flatters your skintone.
Youthful Albany fashion designer savors success
Meet Taofeek Abijako, designer in motion.
He has his own fashion line, Head of State, featuring vibrantly colored men's street wear with a global mindset. His clothes are on sale at stores in the United States, Canada and Japan.
His spring 2018 collection wowed the sartorially savvy at New York's Fashion Week this past July, described by The New York Times as "a startlingly sophisticated show of street wear inspired by post-colonial African clothing, the kind that might have been worn by the fashion-conscious young Malians featured in the classic studio portraits shot by Malike Sidibe or Seydou Keita in the 1960s."
He's driven. Visionary. Innovative. Ambitious. Successful.
No, that's not a typo. Yes, it means he started creating his clothes — his whole aesthetic, really — while a student at Albany High School, where he graduated just last year. And yes, he realizes how unlikely this all is, how swift and surreal. To use his word of choice: "Insane."
How did it happen? How did he get from there to here? That question prompted a long and lively response on Saturday afternoon, when Abijako, who lives in New York City, hit "pause" on his whirlwind life for an interview at the Tierra Farm Store in Albany's Pine Hills.
He was home for the weekend, staying at his old bedroom in his parents' house, and in the mood to chat. He had just scored a deal with retailers in the United States and Canada — scant months after snaring a similar deal with outlets in Japan (see box for retailers). "Every two months, something happens," he said, shaking his head with amazement.
New race wear fashion for all women
FASCINATORS are going like hotcakes at Lane 3 Fashion, but it's not too late for ladies looking for a last minute buy before Melbourne Cup Day.
The new range of race wear is mostly made up of Australian labels 3rd Love and White Closet.
The store recently stocked up on new labels up to a size 18, in addition to their main range.
Store owner Lisa Cowen said the store aimed to provide outfits for all women.
"My biggest thing is ranging the sizes to be able to cater for everybody," Ms Cowen said
Ms Cowen said 90% of shoppers who venture out of their comfort zone get a good return.
"I encourage everybody to try everything and anything on," she said.
"A lot of people will turn their nose up at something on the hanger but then they try it on and it's the outfit that they walk out the door with."
Ms Cowen said it can be hard to judge the trends in Gladstone.
"You've got the ones who love the out there colours, the spring colours, florals, and a lot of people that just like the Plain Jane colours," she said.
"Each to their own, it's hard to say there's more of one than the other."
The store sources a lot of their labels from Brisbane and also from interstate.
Ms Cowen took over the business, previously known as Divine Avenue, in January this year.
Condé Nast bans Terry Richardson from working with any of its publications
Infamous fashion photographer Terry Richardson has been banned from working with any Condé Nast publications, effective immediately.
Condé Nast International’s executive vice-president James Woolhouse reportedly sent an email about the matter to staff internationally this week.
“I am writing to you on an important matter. Condé Nast would like to no longer work with the photographer Terry Richardson. Any shoots that have been commission(ed) or any shoots that have been completed but not yet published, should be killed and substituted with other material,” the email says, which has been confirmed by a spokesperson for Condé Nast International.
“Please could you confirm that this policy will be actioned in your market effective immediately,” it finishes.
Condé Nast International publishes 143 editions of magazines including Vogue, Vanity Fair and GQ.
According to the UK’s Telegraph, the move comes as various media outlets have published allegations regarding Richardson’s allege sexual misconduct during shoots. Britain’s Sunday Times has gone as far to call Richardson “the Harvey Weinstein of fashion,” as per the LA Times.
According to The Telegraph, allegations over Richardson’s conduct have resurfaced and made headlines in recent days, though no fresh claims have been made.
In recent days, models have turned to social media to share their stories of sexual harassment within the fashion industry under the hash tag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse
Breaking: Wynwood to host second annual Fashion’s Night Out
The bad news: The original Fashion’s Night Out spearheaded by Anna Wintour met its untimely demise in 2013. Dunzo. Kaput.
The good news? The second annual Wynwood Fashion Night Out will be held Nov. 2. #SoBlessed
“We’re thrilled to announce the return of Wynwood’s Fashion Night Out and invite the South Florida community to an evening filled with exceptional street art, retail and dining experiences,” Wynwood BID Vice Chairman Albert Garcia says.
What can revelers expect? More than 40 participating businesses throughout Wynwood will be offering an array of in-store promotions (think giveaways and discounts) and parties (bring on the sips and bites!). Expect some catwalk action as well in the form of a grand finale Fashion Show at Mana Wynwood featuring clothing and accessories from neighboring boutiques.
There’s a feel-good component, too. “Wynwood’s business community is also coming together to collected donated items to support the women and families of Lotus House as part of this year’s annual event,” Garcia says.
Wynwood FNO participating retailers will be collecting donated items for non-profit Lotus House, an organization working to improve the lives of homeless women, youth and children. In fact, Wynwood FNO will launch a month-long drive for Lotus House because… ’tis the season to be giving. Items being collected include: Baby diapers, ladies and children’s underwear, new holiday toys for boy and girls, socks for female adults and children and Dove body soap.
Over 40 stores (whoa!) are participating in the fashion and foodie fun. Aesop, Antidote, BASE, Beaker & Grey, Boho Hunter, Del Toro Shoes, Fireman Derek’s Bake Shop, Illesteva, Lovely Bridal Shop, MVM Miami, Panther Coffee, Shinola, Warby Parker and more are in the mix.
5 reasons why you should never feel guilty about wearing jeans every day
Fashion's love affair with jeans shows no signs of slowing down. From dark wash slim cuts at A.P.C. to high-waist wide-legs at Dior, the latest round of catwalk shows proved that our beloved denim is going nowhere soon. While there are a myriad of new jeans styles that have flooded the market (cropped flare and girlfriend jeans, we're looking at you), it's worth noting that you needn't rush to fall for a pair that lends itself to a 'trend' category. A classic pair that are more smart than sloppy and a flattering cut are a fail-safe.
But along with this revival has come a renewed attitude to how and where we can wear our jeans. I'm a denim advocate. I wear them by day, night and at the weekend and challenge anyone to find me a pair of trousers as versatile as my trusty mid-blue straight-legs. I don't feel bad wearing them all the time- as fashion is suggesting we should- and neither should you.
Here are five reasons why...
Although the perfect pair varies for every woman, denim complete with a comfy waist, a 1-2% elastane stretch (any less than that and they can be a bit unforgiving) and a loose but tapered straight leg that ends just above the ankle are versatile, chic and flattering.
Rigid denim is very au courant and can be just as comfortable if you find a well-fitting pair. If fashion-y jeans, such as a kick-flare, mom or wide leg style aren't your thing, stick to a classic pair. It's more important that you feel and look great in them- which is just as well if you're wearing them to sit at your desk or dash from meeting-to- meeting all day.
Granted there are some occasions jeans aren’t welcome, like to a friend's wedding for example (I asked, she wasn’t keen) or to a job interview where a more formal look is necessary. The majority of the time however, denim can be reworked to suit the occasion. Heading to a pub lunch on a Sunday afternoon? Add a sweatshirt and box-fresh trainers. Going out for drinks after work? Pair your denim with a blazer, statement earrings and a block heel to smarten them up.
Chances are if you’re a real denim aficionado, you’ve invested in a great pair that suit your shape perfectly so what better way than getting your cost-per-wear down by dressing them up and down to suit a plethora of scenarios?
Model Cameron Russell calls out the fashion industry on sexual harassment
Dozens of models are banding together to share anonymous accounts of sexual harassment as the controversy over Harvey Weinstein expands to other industries.
Model and activist Cameron Russell, 30, began sharing stories on her Instagramfeed last week, explaining that she wanted to shine a light on abuse of young, often inexperienced models by seasoned professionals in the business.
“Hearing about #harveyweinstein this week has sparked conversations about how widespread and how familiar his behavior is,” Russell wrote on her Instagram feed and has encouraged correspondents contributing their stories to publicly use the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse “so the industry can see the size and scope of this problem”.
Among dozens of entries, many writers have described how, as young women often with little experience, they were left unguarded and vulnerable to predators, many of them photographers, agents, clients and bookers. One described how she was assaulted by an unnamed photographer when she was 15 years old for the sake of “making the pic look more sensual”.
As the feed has gathered stories, it has received hundreds of “likes”, including some from well-known models. But Russell wrote that the Instagram accounts should not be seen as an exposé “because nothing in these stories should be a revelation for those working in our industry”.
Russell’s call for the fashion industry to reform have been joined by supermodel Christy Turlington Burns. She told WWD that she felt fortunate that she had not been abused, but added: “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry.”
Turlington, who is married to the actor and documentary maker Edward Burns, continued: “The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experienced at some point in our careers.”
The model, who now runs a not-for-profit organization that trains midwives in Guatemala, said that there were many times early in her career when she had flown abroad for an assignment to find herself entrusted to the care of “some creepy playboy type”.
“In hindsight, I fear I may have played the ‘honeypot’ that has been described in the stories about these predators who make other women feel protected. Unknowingly, but still an accomplice of sorts.”
The Weinstein scandal is now placing the fashion industry in the crosshairs.
Weinstein is married to a fashion designer, Georgina Chapman, and was frequently seen in the front row at his wife’s catwalk shows with senior industry executives. The couple have now separated, Chapman has announced.
FASHION: Crafting a look for autumn
SADLY, we are all too familiar with stories of sweatshop labour and youth exploitation in the fashion industry.
So it is heartening to hear another tale – one where fashion is a positive force in people's lives and helps them make a fair living.
York businesswoman Anne McCrickard has been telling those stories for several years now, through her ethical clothing boutique Maude & Tommy, Grape Lane.
If clothes could talk, these garments would keep you captivated.
Take the exquisite and colourful swing coat from Bibi Hanum in Uzbekistan. It is made by craftspeople, mostly women, in the Tashkent, Ferghana Valley and the Navoi Region. The company is a social enterprise, with a mission to provide economic opportunities for women while preserving Uzbekistan’s rich heritage.
Anne explains: "The clothes are designed to incorporate the traditional crafts of Uzbek artisans. Ikat fabrics are made by master craftsmen in the Fergana Valley, whose families have employed these techniques for generations."
These techniques were almost lost forever, adds Anne, because of the imposition of modernisation during the Soviet era.
"In their style and ornamentation, Uzbek clothing reflects centuries of cross-cultural trade along the Silk Road network that crossed Central Asia, particularly from Persia, India and China."
Every garment in the boutique has to fit in with Anne's ethos of slow fashion, the antithesis of today’s throwaway fast fashion, often made in sweatshop conditions.
“I love buying from craftspeople from around the world," says Anne. "For autumn/winter, we have items handmade in York and Yorkshire, alongside pieces from India, Uzbekistan, France, Sweden and Italy.
“Some are new ventures while others keep alive techniques that have been mastered over centuries. You’re not just buying clothes, you’re supporting these people, their children and entire communities."
Another example is the block colour coat by Neeru Kumar. It looks surprisingly modern, but is based on traditional techniques and indigenous materials from India.
And how about this as an antidote to throwaway fashion – a bag made from recycled goods. The company What Daisy Did uses waste materials from various industries to create its range of bags and purses.
Anne says the designs are timeless, to outlive micro trends and seasons, and made by more than 100 artisans in rural India. "The bags are hard wearing and made to last, keeping them out of landfill for as long as possible," she adds.
Chic craft pieces made closer to home also make the cut for autumn/winter at Maude & Tommy.
"Norfolk-based CoridaKnit is known for its hand-felted accessories but the business has taken the latest collection in a new direction," says Anne. "Using a fresh technique known as nuno felting, it involves bonding 70 per cent extra fine merino wool on to a printed silk gauze textile. The effect is a stunningly-detailed lightweight felt with exquisite detail."
Making Fairisle fabulous again is Galashiels-based Eribé, which describes itself as ‘a cottage industry gone global’. The business works with hand-knitters and knitwear designers who are experts in the heritage knitting technique.
Created from natural fibres, including lambswool and merino, the garments are made using knowledge handed down from one generation to the next. There’s a mix of machine-knits and hand-framed styles, with almost 90 per cent of products made in Scotland, says Anne.